Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 68

Thread: Snowboard shipping 101.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672

    Snowboard shipping 101.

    might be best if there's no "conversation" in this thread. If you have questions, feel free to email me directly. Same if you think of something I should add, or you see something that needs to be corrected, etc.

    OK. This comes up often enough that I decided to take the time to try and simplify it for folks, based on my experiences. Obviously there are other methods and other perspectives, but this has worked for me numerous times in the past

    1st, I should state that the BEST shipping method for a snowboard is to use a long, fairly flat box. Ski and snowboard shops often have these on hand, and will usually just give them to you. I have done this more than once. If you can pull this off, all you need is some bubble wrap on the tip, tail and waist to fill out space.

    Many of us dont have shops nearby, or even if we do they might not have something suitable, SO, here is my method:

    Tools needed:


    • Box Cutter (stay away from Homeland Security workers!)
    • Tape gun (makes things much, much easier and more precise, but not totally necessary)
    • Tape measure
    1) Measure the board to be shipped using whatever standard is in your area (inches are more convenient in the states due to box sizing standards). You will want the length and width

    2) Obtain a standard shipping box that has appropriate dimensions:
    • the depth (height) of the box will be the width of the board to be shipped plus at least 2-3 inches to allow for a buffer area around the edges. Suitable sizes are readily available from "Pack and Ship" places, or if youre not too proud you can do some trash digging. DONT use these places for anything but buying materials if necessary. they will rape you.
    • the length and width of the box must add up (2 x L + 2 x W) to the length of the board plus at least 4-6" for both the tip and tail (8-12" longer than the actual length of the board). For instance, a 24X16X12 box, when laid flat as shown in pics would end up 12" wide and 84" long, leaving plenty of space on the sides and ends.
    this box will be slit in one corner, and laid flat (see pics).

    3) Make tip and tail protectors out of cardboard. These should extend past the start of the sidecut and cover both top and base (see pic). Secure with tape. There is no need to tape directly to the board (will leave residue on topsheet so avoid!) If you tape the sides correctly you can snug these just fine without it.

    4) Lay the board flat, base down, on your fully opened box. (pic)

    5) Pull one end up flush with the nose. Cut slits lengthwise along the creases in the box (where the "top" and "bottom" would fold) to just even with the nose. Fold this piece up and over the nose. In this instance, you might want to use a small amount of tape to secure this flap to the board, OR you can proceed to step 6 to hold this flap in place. (see pic, I used tape on this one). Do the exact same for the tail section.

    6) Fold the "sides" over this flap and tape securely. I use one piece of tape across, then run one lengthwise and press it down with the butt of my tapegun. (see pics). This might result in gaps between the sections. If so, before folding the sides, cut a few sections of cardboard to fit the width, and place these under the gaps before securing the sides (logic will show you what to do, also see pics). Run a length of tape over these filled gaps for extra security.

    7) Repeat step 6 for all "sides."

    8) You will now have excess flaps protruding past the tip and tail. These can be cut, but if you fold them over they provide an added layer of protection (see pics) so simply turn the board over and fold the flaps over. You will likely find that you will need to do some trimming here to eliminate overhanging material. I find that "scoring" a line across the cardboard at the folding area helps it be a little more precise.

    9) Secure the results of step 8 with tape, and inspect the whole package for necessary tape reinforcement. It is probably best to not leave any openings.

    10) You're done! If you've done this correctly, you will have a 1" or more "buffer" area along the edges, the tip and tail will be doubled up (tripled up even) on protection and youre ready to ship!










    Last edited by D-Sub; November 11th, 2005 at 04:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    Pics of packing steps:
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    more pics(different board, wanted a pic of the "inserts" I used to close the gaps):
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    more pics (last one shows box with gaps...I re-sealed it with "inserts"). Two different boards, same result.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    SPEAKING OF SHIPPING, WHO SHOULD I USE?

    Good question! I have found that USPS Priority is the fastest, and usually cheapest method for shipment. Their size restrictions and extra charges for Oversize packages are a little more forgiving. Insurance costs significantly more through USPS than it does through FedEx or UPS, but this is offset by the cheaper shipping rate.

    For comparison, I checked the rates for a 74 x 12 x 4 (L x W x H) package weighing 12 pounds (most boards will weigh less than this once packaged.) These are the dimensions for a 185cm race board, rounded up. Shorter, fatter freeride boards will yield the same results basically since due to the length, all shippers will charge an oversize rate. I used my current zip code (92835) and estimated to New York, NY (10001) which is basically cross country.

    the results (USPS, FedEx Ground, UPS Ground, in that order)
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    In the above instance, using my created specs, FedEx Ground turns out to be the cheapest, but if you reduce the insurance amount, USPS cost will drop significantly. I just used $500 as a random number. Your results might vary depending on origin and destination.

    something else to consider is that FedEx and UPS charge extra for "rurual" delivery while I dont think USPS does.

    next I chose to compare rates from my zip, to Toronto, Ontario, Canada (I used M4B 1V4 as the postal code):

    again, USPS, FedEx Ground, UPS Ground)
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Last edited by D-Sub; November 11th, 2005 at 04:11 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    Something to consider heavily with UPS, FedEx, and other non-government carriers is the brokerage fees that will be imposed. I do not understand exactly how this works, but these fees add heavily to the cost for the recipient!

    ways to reduce cost for international shipment from US to XXX:
    • less insurance (please assess risk of loss or damage!!!)
    • declare low value (can only be done with lower insurance)
    • declare USED item with NO COMMERCIAL VALUE (write on package)
    • declare GIFT on customs form
    Results will vary, obviously

    shipping calculators for the big three:

    http://postcalc.usps.gov/
    http://www.fedex.com/ratefinder/home?cc=US&language=en
    http://wwwapps.ups.com/calTimeCost?loc=en_US

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    Oh...another thing!

    DO NOT USE "Pack and Ship" TYPE PLACES! Avoid at all costs! Purchasing materials from them is bad enough...but if you let them pack your stuff it will cost you the proverbial arm and leg, AND they jack up the actual shipping and insurance amounts.

    FedEx stuff can be dropped off at KINKOS in the US. Everyone has a Post Office near them, and UPS dropoffs are not hard to find!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Easton, PA
    Posts
    1,188

    Just earned some CEU's

    Dsub,

    Great thread!!!! Just want to know if I can get some CEU's with this lesson. Printed out and in the Bomber folder.

    Nice work

    Later
    Trux

    PS D-Sub in response to your email- my understanding, CEU's are Continuing Education Units- Basically classes or seminars you attend to that are not towards any college degree (I may be wrong), but most often act as credits to maintain current professional designations. Most designation have a certain number of CEU's needed over a desginated period of time, say 5 years. Sometimes companies also recognize CEU as a means of measuring and employee's ongoing professional development in that he/she isn't being a basement slug for the company and works towards continual improvement.

    I thought your thread was thorough enough and educational enough to earn a few CEU's in board shipping. Good work


    PSS Only recommendation I would make to be sure the box print is on the inside to try and minimize suspicion and delay if it is crossing a border. I usually use refrigerator boxes and a customs dude may be less inclined to open it, if it doesnt say General Electric Refrigerator on a long skinny flat box.
    Last edited by Chubz; November 12th, 2005 at 06:44 AM. Reason: Update #2

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Hotlanta
    Posts
    54

    excellent!

    nothing better than a nicely packaged online purchase!

    thanks!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Santa Cruz
    Posts
    451

    CEU's

    You are right on about CEU's Trux, and I need a few. Thanks for all the effort D-Sub. I have a couple empty carving board boxes that I don't want to use.
    Carve On~~~~

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    Quote Originally Posted by Chubz
    PSS Only recommendation I would make to be sure the box print is on the inside to try and minimize suspicion and delay if it is crossing a border. I usually use refrigerator boxes and a customs dude may be less inclined to open it, if it doesnt say General Electric Refrigerator on a long skinny flat box.
    well, so much for not having conversations in this one

    thats a good point. I have a BUNCH of shipping boxes laying around, most of them brand new purchased in bulk for my music gear sales. As it turns out, the 24X14X10 boxes work PERFECTLY for a 184, so no worries on a label there as they are blank!

    ok...gimme some CEUs then!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim
    You are right on about CEU's Trux, and I need a few. Thanks for all the effort D-Sub. I have a couple empty carving board boxes that I don't want to use.
    no doubt...I used to hoarde board boxes, as they seem hard to come by. obviously theyre the best, but...this works fine

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Upstate New Yawk
    Posts
    216
    This should be a "sticky".

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    I was hoping there'd be no convo in it...I did email fin to make it a sticky but he's likely very busy. Im sure he'll do it as soon as he sees it.

  16. #16
    Randy S. Guest
    I found a great local, free source for long boxes: Your local auto dealer's body shop or other body shop. Lots of car body panes come shipped in good, rugged cardboard that is very long to fit things like hoods, bumpers, etc. My local Volvo dealer puts the boxes on the sidewalk during the day before they break them down and put them in their recycle bin. They love it when people take the boxes because they pay for every trip the recycle truck has to make.

    Nice post D-Sub.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy S.
    I found a great local, free source for long boxes: Your local auto dealer's body shop or other body shop. Lots of car body panes come shipped in good, rugged cardboard that is very long to fit things like hoods, bumpers, etc. My local Volvo dealer puts the boxes on the sidewalk during the day before they break them down and put them in their recycle bin. They love it when people take the boxes because they pay for every trip the recycle truck has to make.

    Nice post D-Sub.
    sweet! good tip!

    oh, and lamp shops! some of those floor lamps and stuff...come in some long as boxes

    and flourescent light bulbs, too!

    its just..thing is...sometimes its hard to find that stuff, but its easy to buy a 24X14X10 or 12 box, slit it and DONE

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    bump. was hoping fin would sticky this. seems worthy.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Pacific Northwest/ Portland Metro Area
    Posts
    6,280

    Definitely worth a "Sticky"

    Dave, perhaps ask Fin or an admin to allow a link for some a brief web primer page?
    Similar to my shipping link here.

    After over 4000 auctions and shipping hundreds of boards , I have yet to buy ONE box! Razor knife is the key.

    I have been meaning to do a "Step by Step" , just time has not allowed.


    A "Line Diagram" or "Flow Chart" would be really cool too.

    Typically it is the weight/size y in the road. If it is light but long, go USPS Priority. If it has bindings and or is heavy, go "Ground" either UPS , Fed Ex or on of the other carriers. NOTE. Prices are about to go up even further. UPS recently emailed those with accounts about an increase pending.

    CARDBOARD= good
    Foam peanuts/ bubble wrap= nearly worthless!!

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Dash Point (Tacoma)
    Posts
    786

    Usps

    Just shipped a 168 O'sin via Parcel post. They charge a minimum of 14 lbs for a board (package size 68 x 13 x 3") that goes over their size limits, and include a balloon charge. The total was $13.38 plus $5.20 for $400 insurance. All together it came to $18.58 from Washington to So. cal.

    This was a whole lot cheaper than UPS. Didn't bother to check with the other carriers, but I don't think I could have sent it anywhere for under $14.00 that USPS charged.

  21. #21
    Fuegocarve Guest
    You are so funny! Thanks, I guess for entering me into the calendar...I wish you would have asked me first!
    I want to submit a great photo of a friend carving. Where should I send it?

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    wait...wrong thread...Lesli?

    I couldnt remember your bomber name...and yeah, I should have asked first, although I figured once you send a photo to an almost complete stranger its likely not considered too private

    the calendar thread is elsewhere. stoked is the guy to send to, if the calendar thing is still on.

    check the main forum...

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Aix en PRovence - France
    Posts
    10
    I have a question that sort of relates to this: I need to take my board in a plane with me. I have never done this so do you guys know if just using a surf bag is enough to protect it while the board is in the plane or do I need to use the shipping technique to protect it?

    Thanks

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    yes, Im up late.

    I wouldnt trust a surf bag. theres a reason baggage handlers are called throwers.

    honestly, sporttube or similiar is all I would trust these days, personally. theyre not that expensive. check ebay maybe.

    OR, if you cant afford that, just pad the board well, very well, at the tip/tail/edges...maybe throw your clothes in around it, etc...

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Posts
    3,661
    Quote Originally Posted by D-Sub
    honestly, sporttube or similiar is all I would trust these days, personally. theyre not that expensive. check ebay maybe.

    OR, if you cant afford that, just pad the board well, very well, at the tip/tail/edges...maybe throw your clothes in around it, etc...
    Even if you use a SportTube, pad the edges. You don't want your decks banging around the inside....

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    oh..yeah...I ASSumed that would be the case

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    SSoSYTt Founder
    Posts
    1,938
    When I saw all that you were going through to ship a board I was like No way, but then I saw the Coiler and said well OK
    __________________________________________________ ________________________________________
    http://forums.softballfans.com/image.php?u=294&type=sigpic&dateline=1308675982
    Embrace the Vision of Success

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hell
    Posts
    3,672
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Buggs
    When I saw all that you were going through to ship a board I was like No way, but then I saw the Coiler and said well OK
    it only takes about 15 minutes start to finish. I actually wondered about extra reinforcement for the coiler but it only went to NorCal so it was safe.

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Albuquerque, NM
    Posts
    1,308

    Understanding OS1 vs OS2

    DSub-Nice Post!

    I just wanted to add that it seems the cutoff between "Oversize 1" and "Oversize 2" using UPS, USPS, and FedEx is 77x12x4 inches. Since the width (12") and height (4") can be used for just about any alpine board the length is the only thing that will really matter. You can have upto 30#'s with OS1 and 70#'s with OS2. So weight does not matter when shipping boards as the package will be weigh much less than that.

    **The price seems to quadruple when you ship OS2 sized objects.**

    You can go up to 76x12x4 for OS1. Anything over 77x12x4 is OS2.

    If you drop 1" on the width or the height you can go up to 78" in OS1 and 79" starts OS2 on length. If you drop 1" on width and height you can go up to 80" in OS1 and 81" starts OS2.

    80" is 203.20cm so you can get some pretty long boards out within the OS1 standard by decreasing the size of your width and height (girth).

    If you really want to get down and dirty about it you need to measure the girth of the box and the length of the box. A piece of string (or chain) can be used to more accurately measure girth. With the above scenario the girth is measured by calculating the perimeter of the box (2*x height + 2*width) which is 32". Realistically the girth will be nowhere near 32" unless you really super-wrapped the tip/tail with multiple layers of cardboard. Measure your girth at the "fattest" part of your package which would be normally be the tip of the board. Just wrap the string around the package and measure the string. This can free up valuable inches for those super long boards!

    Data from the UPS website:

    To qualify @ OS1: combined length + girth is 85"-108"
    To qualify @ OS2: combined length + girth is 109"-130"

    Understand the difference. Don't be suckered into believeing that your package is OS2! Make them measure it!

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    27
    Just figured i'd pipe up and give you guys a helpful link that I use at work for tracking and shipping information. I work at Pratt and Whitney as a purchasing agent, so shipment tracking and pricing is a big portion of my day:

    http://shipping.langenberg.com/

    Its a good site, and while the top portion will apply to most people, as the lower is for larger scale freight, there is also a link at the top of the page that direct links to various shipper's pricings for shipment. These links are also at the bottom of the page i just linked you.

    Anyway... this might come in handy. I know I keep it bookmarked on my computer for easy shipment tracking.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •