Sg 2012/13

[WinterGold]

I haven´t heard of any major changes yet, so I assume that the shapes will mainly stay the same. But what would you change at the moment? ...

Here is a teaser of the new graphics -
I guess the order is - Full Race Pro Team, Full Race Titan, Force, Race Junior, Full Carve, Free Solo.

[piusthedrcarve]

I haven´t heard of any major changes yet, so I assume that the shapes will mainly stay the same. But what would you change at the moment? ...Here is a teaser of the new graphics -I guess the order is - Full Race Pro Team, Full Race Titan, Force, Race Junior, Full Carve, Free Solo.

I saw this from a Korean rider's blog also. I couldn't guess the last one though.

[WinterGold]

The FreeSolo will get a new smaller size - 152.

And there are two new sizes for the BX board - Force - 155 and 160F (fat).

The alpine ranges keep the same sizes.

[WinterGold]

The sizes 157 and 175 will get a slightly softer flex for 2013.

[piusthedrcarve]

The sizes 157 and 175 will get a slightly softer flex for 2013.

Even softer than prior years?
After riding 170 for 3 days so far, I noticed it's stiffer than 175. maybe from wider width and shorter. But definitely stiffer than what I'd experienced with 175 last season. I hoped I could play it little better with shorter one but it seems that I need more speed to control .... on our short hills. I will give you my feedback soon once I really get on it.

[WinterGold]

Pius, the flex patterns are really interesting. The 163 is also noticeably stiffer than the 170 for example.

Pictures - the first one shows the base of the FullCarve and the new FreeSolo in the back (in the far back there is a FreeSolo from this year) and the second one shows the FullRace Pro Team and the FullRace Titan.

[match2002]

As always SG boards are better looking in person than pictures.

Cheers,
Match

[kieran]

Pius, the flex patterns are really interesting. The 163 is also noticeably stiffer than the 170 for example

because the 163 is an SL board for fat gits, and the 170 is a GS board for twigs?

[piusthedrcarve]

Aha. Thanks for the line-up image, Ivan.

[WinterGold]

because the 163 is an SL board for fat gits, and the 170 is a GS board for twigs?

No, not really. The 163 is the slalom weapon and the 170 is more of a recreational freecarver (although still a full on raceboard). They are both made for a similar weight range and they have the same waist width, but the supposed usage is different.

But then, you could also see it your way ...

[piusthedrcarve]

No, not really. The 163 is the slalom weapon and the 170 is more of a recreational freecarver (although still a full on raceboard). They are both made for a similar weight range and they have the same waist width, but the supposed usage is different.

Finally, I dialed in the UPZ boots and finally had full test on 170 Full Carve yesterday. Hehe.. what can I say. I love it. Before yesterday, I thought it is like racing decks but found out it is not. Edge hold was like Full Race Titan. Long sidecut radii (approx. 15m) was nice for 170. but I could make them tight if I wanted to. Very fun board to ride. Stiffer than 175 Full Race Titan definitely. It also like to find fall line but manageable to track on carve line. On few turns, it launches me at the finish of turn... not like freecarving decks (clean & snappy) but more clean and bold, if you know what I mean. Thanks you and match2002 for the nice recommendation... but then.. where is SNOW this season?

[TLN]

Just curious. Full Carve costs 625 Euro vs 975 Euro, thats more then 1.5 times cheaper. But does Full Race worth it for a amateur boarder?
I just went hardbooting this year and i wont change my 4WD to another board next year(or at least i'm not going to do that). I understand that Full Race would be a top level board with no exclusions. But how does Full Carve compared to 4wd for example? Or they're pretty the same boards?
Lets take a 4WD 179 (R10.5 21.4 waist, 152 edge) and Full Carve 180 (R19.2(OMG) 20.3 waist, 168 edge).

[piusthedrcarve]

how does Full Carve compared to 4wd for example? Or they're pretty the same boards?
Lets take a 4WD 179 (R10.5 21.4 waist, 152 edge) and Full Carve 180 (R19.2(OMG) 20.3 waist, 168 edge).

I had 169 & 179 4WD Pre 08 model and Now ride 170 Full Carve. Construction, Shape, and Geometry are totally different between 4WD & Full Carve and obviously it rides very differ. The 16 cm difference of running length is significant for same length decks on fast carving. I was experiencing very stable rides and edge hold like titanial boards with Full Carve. I do have a Prior WCRM which is pretty much similar shape like SG (but not aggressive like SG) but totally different ride characteristics. if you want full comparison on those specific decks (4WD vs. Full Carve), please PM me.

[WinterGold]

A nice video for real equipment junkies !

http://vimeo.com/36671963

TLN - do you need metal for an alpine snowboard? That is a question which will get you lots of different answers ... it depends on so many factors (how much are you willing to pay for a snowboard, what is your preferred terrain, which conditions do you usually ride in, what is your riding style, do you want to impress your riding buddies, does the board need to make a good impression in front of the restaurant, do you use your board also as decoration at home, etc., etc.).

Pius, I´m really glad that you like the board!

[match2002]

TLN - in snowboarding people usually don't downgrade their gear. Once they are on titanal deck they will hardly change it for something non metal. SG Full Carve is one of the rare decks where many people are going from metal (back) to glass. To be honest SG Full Carve riding characteristics are much more alike metal boards than old shape glass boards.

BTW my favorite board is Full Carve 170.

CHEERS,
match

[piusthedrcarve]

TLN - in snowboarding people usually don't downgrade their gear. Once they are on titanal deck they will hardly change it for something non metal. SG Full Carve is one of the rare decks where many people are going from metal (back) to glass. To be honest SG Full Carve riding characteristics are much more alike metal boards than old shape glass boards.

Yup. After riding various titanial boards last season, I wouldn't choose Full Carve if Match2002 & WinterGold didn't suggest. Now, I'm glad I followed their recommendation.
I still like the pop out of turns from well made glass boards but stability that titanial boards has is really hard not to consider, especially you want to go fast.

[TLN]

I had 169 & 179 4WD Pre 08 model and Now ride 170 Full Carve. Construction, Shape, and Geometry are totally different between 4WD & Full Carve and obviously it rides very differ. The 16 cm difference of running length is significant for same length decks on fast carving. I was experiencing very stable rides and edge hold like titanial boards with Full Carve. I do have a Prior WCRM which is pretty much similar shape like SG (but not aggressive like SG) but totally different ride characteristics. if you want full comparison on those specific decks (4WD vs. Full Carve), please PM me.

TLN - do you need metal for an alpine snowboard? That is a question which will get you lots of different answers ... it depends on so many factors (how much are you willing to pay for a snowboard, what is your preferred terrain, which conditions do you usually ride in, what is your riding style, do you want to impress your riding buddies, does the board need to make a good impression in front of the restaurant, do you use your board also as decoration at home, etc., etc.).

Pius, I?m really glad that you like the board!

TLN - in snowboarding people usually don't downgrade their gear. Once they are on titanal deck they will hardly change it for something non metal. SG Full Carve is one of the rare decks where many people are going from metal (back) to glass. To be honest SG Full Carve riding characteristics are much more alike metal boards than old shape glass boards.

BTW my favorite board is Full Carve 170.

Yup. After riding various titanial boards last season, I wouldn't choose Full Carve if Match2002 & WinterGold didn't suggest. Now, I'm glad I followed their recommendation.
I still like the pop out of turns from well made glass boards but stability that titanial boards has is really hard not to consider, especially you want to go fast.

Wow! So much answers! =)
Well, at first: i'm 220-225 lbs guy, 6"5 tall so i definately grab longest one for me.
Second: no races, carving for fun. Even that i think that racing(and all the measured things) shoud be to check and see your progress.

Now i'm riding Prior 4WD 179. Sometimes good, sometimes not, but i like it and i'm learning. So i just interesting what Full Carve can give to me? It looks interesing to me, as it's bit simpler, affordable board from a manufacturers who make WC boards.
I don't know what doen metal board feel like, and it's almost inpossible here to get a Kessler board for my weight and try it, however some friends got custom Kesslers for a smaller weight.
I don't mind paying a bigger sum for a board, and i'm sure that Full Race worth it. But just interesting how does all that compared to my own.

[NWboarder]

I too am intrigued by the SG Full Carve... at a recreational Carver and at 230 with a mondo 31 who is just now laying down some serious ruts, I feel this may be a better option then my 178 RennTiger? I LOVE my SG all-mt. Wondering if I should make the switch... suggestions anyone?

[WinterGold]

NWboarder, with a Mondo 31 I would not recommend the 175 (also not for your weight ...). So coming from a 178 RennTiger, you could either go with a 170 (which would turn a bit tighter than your RennTiger, but it can also handle some serious speed!) or go with the 180 (you need some space for this machine, but it is a very nice carving stick!). So if you have enough space where you normally ride and you like speed and/or bigger turns, I would go with the 180.
If you need to share your slopes with other people and/or you like tighter turns, you can go with the 170 (or even the 163 if you like SL type of turns).

Compared to conventional shapes, the new shapes provide more edge grip, more stability on the edge, more control over the radius of your turns (more variable) and less body movement is required (you can stay in a centered, balanced position and the board still works great for a wide range of conditions).

Is it worth it? Probably ...

[NWboarder]

Great stuff!! I would go with the 180 from this year for sure if I go the SG route... I want something easier to ride then then RennTiger. Maybe its in my head but it seams stiff?? I want that extra half of an inch too... every little bit counts. I like speed and bigger turns aren't that much of an issue out here in the great North West (that is until noon, then the annoying half-dayers arrive and muck it up for everyone). Im a first chair guy anyway and always bring a backup for pow stashes and crud in the pm. Compared to your other boards, how forgiving is the full carve?

[WinterGold]

So the 180 it is ...

I can´t really comment on the FullCarve, although I hear that it is pretty close to the FullRace when it comes to riding performance.
I only ride FullRace boards and they handle everything you throw at them really well.
Because of the different camber line (decambered nose), these boards also drift very easily and you can also transition from carving to drifting very smoothly. This makes for a great handling!
I remember somebody saying that the first time he stepped on a new school raceboard it felt like cheating ! Less input, more performance.

[TLN]

So the 180 it is

...

I can´t really comment on the FullCarve, although I hear that it is pretty close to the FullRace when it comes to riding performance.
I only ride FullRace boards and they handle everything you throw at them really well.
Because of the different camber line (decambered nose), these boards also drift very easily and you can also transition from carving to drifting very smoothly. This makes for a great handling!
I remember somebody saying that the first time he stepped on a new school raceboard it felt like cheating ! Less input, more performance.

You didn't answered my question, may be i can ask another way. If you are able to buy either boards Full Carve 180 vs Full Race Titan 180/185, would you choose Full Carve for any variants. Or in such comparsion, you definately grab the Titan version?
ps. i'm probably the same as NWBoarder: US13(but i'd probably fir in US12) ~230 lbs and just a bit less then 2m tall.

[WinterGold]

For me it just seems a question of money. If you are willing and able to pay the price of the Titan, then I would definitely go the Titan route.
On the other hand, the FullCarve has the better value for money and some riders say that the FullCarve needs less strength, because it isn´t torsionally as stiff as the FullRace models.
When the going gets tough (icy, ruts, etc.), you might lose a bit of edge grip and dampening in comparison to the FullRace models, but I guess you would only notice this in direct comparison.

[piusthedrcarve]

...........If you are able to buy either boards Full Carve 180 vs Full Race Titan 180/185, would you choose Full Carve for any variants. Or in such comparsion, you definately grab the Titan version?

Well... It's all depends on types of riding you would like to do with the board. I had 175 Titan last season and now I ride 170 Full Carve. As WinterGold said, Titan is little more versatile on ruts. (Ice... I will find out after this weekend .. Both decks want to find fall line but it is little easier to find carve line on Full Carve. So it's matter of you to decide what type of riding you pursue. If you do race, go with Titan, if you ride recreationally, go with Carve. More FUN. BTW, the both decks got amazing edge hold and speed, which I like.

[WinterGold]

The new catalog is now online -

http://sgjapan.jp/12-13catalog.pdf