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Thread: eurocarve sidecut radius

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    North Bend, WA
    Posts
    27

    eurocarve sidecut radius

    When viewing most eurocarve videos (or whatever you want to call them) most of the transitions from edge to edge are not smooth. Anyone can lay down when they are turning, but smooth edge to edge transitions IMHO are the key to great carving. The transition of power to the edge is done by body angulation and attempting to have 100% force initiated to the edge. This reduces slipping and makes a true carve.

    I have been riding a couple Donek 185 FC with a 12.5 sidecut for the last 6 years. Before that I rode a Riot Supercarve that had a 11.5 sidecut. I also have a few other boards, a Factory Prime, Burton M6, and Burton P6. On a very steep run I can lay down EC's, but they are more of controlled slip or slide while laying down without smooth transitions. Almost feels like carving a board with 90 degree boot angles. The amount of work from edge to edge is way more work than necessary to carve smoothly.

    There are only a few EC carvers that seem to transition smoothly from edge to edge. With all the background....Here is the question; What is the preferred sidecut for ECing?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austria
    Posts
    403
    I guess you know the extreme carving website. Here is what the godfathers of extreme carving ride -

    http://www.extremecarving.com/tech/set.html

    So the boards are between 12,5m and 13,5m sidecut and relatively soft for an alpine board.

    On the site you also have a very good explanation of the technique. Those riders also manage some pretty good transitions .
    "Snoboardinī will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no snoboardinī" - Crazy Banana ad

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Maine/NH
    Posts
    506
    The transition of power to the edge is done by body angulation and attempting to have 100% force initiated to the edge. This reduces slipping and makes a true carve.
    While the second part of this statement may ring true in some circumstances, the assumptions of the first half likely contain the root of your difficulty in getting what you want from your board. While sidecut has an influence, the 'path' you take from one edge of the board to the other is more significant.

    The amount of work from edge to edge is way more work than necessary to carve smoothly.
    Right. So approach the task with dexterity, timing, and touch taking precedent over 'power' 'force' and 'angulation'.

    There are only a few EC carvers that seem to transition smoothly from edge to edge.
    And it is readily apparent that the 'few' move differently than do the 'most'.

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