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Thread: Board damage

  1. #1
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    Question Board damage

    Not sure how I did this but I dont know, should I be worried?



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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Buggs View Post
    Not sure how I did this but I dont know, should I be worried?
    If you borrowed it from a friend, then yes. Otherwise, I had a very similar ding once and took it to a ski shop. They told me that nicks that size in that location are not an issue, but if you're paranoid (I am), you can seal them with epoxy just to make sure there's no chance of water getting into the core.
    Last edited by Dan; November 23rd, 2011 at 03:34 PM.
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  3. #3
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    What material should I get? Im Not paranoid but its not a bad thing to seal it.
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  4. #4
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    The ski shop had a little package of 2-part epoxy that they sold me, but I don't remember what it was called. It was a great size for a single use application - it probably made about 2 tablespoons of compound. I'm sure someone will chime in with more specific suggestions.

    Incidentally, I got my ding from a high school racer riding over my board in the liftline during summer riding at Timberline.
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  5. #5
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    That's your averaged sized ding. I've got millions of them. Want some more?

    Three options:

    1. Ignore it.
    2. Sand it down so its smooth.
    3. Full repair: epoxy the bastard, then sand smooth, reapply epoxy, sand again... and if you're crazy, plastic filler, sand, add touch up paint, which in your case won't match the wood finish

  6. #6
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    my coiler is all busted up like that.... no issues....
    Last edited by Mellow Yellow; November 23rd, 2011 at 04:59 PM.
    Rippin' with rednecks down in Possum's Pouch.... SkiNC

  7. #7
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    I will go by the local hardware store and see if I can find one of those single use tubes of 2 part. That way I can cover it with something semi permanent. Thanks for the advice.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by benttech View Post
    That's your averaged sized ding. I've got millions of them. Want some more?

    Three options:

    1. Ignore it.
    2. Sand it down so its smooth.
    3. Full repair: epoxy the bastard, then sand smooth, reapply epoxy, sand again... and if you're crazy, plastic filler, sand, add touch up paint, which in your case won't match the wood finish
    Most instances, #2 is the easiest/best fix
    "The older I get, the better I was" Old Guys Rule...

  9. #9
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    I was hit by a softbooter last year, check this thread
    http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulleti...ghlight=repair
    Stephane

  10. #10
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    metal?

    Bobby,

    Is that a metal?

    Where along the length is the damage? Is the metal bent, or is there a sharp little "hang nail" there?

    I have retired a board with similar defects. I would be mindful if it is in the middle %50 of the board.

    If this is damage on a glass/carbon/kevlar construction board. . . then I agree with everyone else, no big deal.

    Good luck!
    ~tb

  11. #11
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    The best commonly available product for this is called JB Weld (not Qwik-Weld). It's a two-part space-filling epoxy which is sandable once it cures, very temperature-tolerant and slightly flexible. Cures gray so that's probably going to fit in nicely. If you happen to find it somewhere the 3M DP810 is fantastic but you'd need some shafting beads or something to thicken it up just a bit.

  12. #12
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    Hey Todd, Yeah its metal and I dont feel any kinks or hang nails, it was just abs type material.
    From what I understand about this design, The top layers are really fused on well so it won't propogate any delam from there. Im still gonna fill it in with some 2 part.



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  13. #13
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    Dang that thing is purdy. If you get epoxy, get the stuff that takes 24 hours to cure. Not the quick stuff. The longer the cure, the more it stays flexible with use. And keep it warm when it is curing (inside the house, not out in the garage).

  14. #14
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    Before you epoxy, take a flat file and file down the top edge, I think you can file it away, if there's anything to fill with epoxy tape around it to avoid the mess.
    I find that a file does away with disagreements like that (on a metal board)
    Last edited by ursle; November 23rd, 2011 at 06:52 PM.

  15. #15
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    Hey Sinecure, when we gonna catch up??
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  16. #16
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    Hey Bobby,

    I've had lots of luck with the two part epoxy (again, the slower drying/high strength kind.) I usually drip/work some into the ding and then squish the whole thing down with a very small c-clamp to cure for a day or so.

    To protect that purdy topsheet and your base from getting dented in the process, I'd also suggest using some thin wood (popsicle sticks, shims, etc.) between your board and the metal ends of the clamp. Just be clean with your epoxy so everything doesn't get stuck together. Good luck! See you on the hill.
    "''planter ben red' can be put very simply into ''the board stopped freakin fast kinda on its own''--Bomber-member Pat

  17. #17
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    as others have said, file off and smooth any hangers and then seal it with some epoxy if you think it needs it. kessler and metal top prior owners do a lot of this.

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  19. #19
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    Common on Coilers??

    Had to laugh. I have the same board with almost the same damage (see pics)

    On the lift (my first day with the new board) with a knuckle dragger who was swinging his board back and forth. I asked him to stop.....twice!

    He hit my board, so i turned and punched him as hard as i could square in the chest.

    He never swung his board the rest of the day.

    P.S. It was my son, 23 years old.
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  20. #20
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    Bobby and Phil

    I have been meaning to post back to this thread for some time now, and have just found a minute or two.

    I was discussing this thread with two other hardbooters on the east coast and we were discussing my practice of retiring any metal board that has damage to the metal, even a small nick. Check out Sean Martin's video linked below at ~0:45 he shows the one alarming property of titinal (it is VERY brittle).


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agmNj...eature=related

    As soon as there is any stress riser in the metal, the chance for a brittle failure that propagates across the board becomes much much higher. Regardless to how well it is bonded to the next layer in the board, the metal layer will no longer be working in tension and compression once cracked and that can lead to a catastrophic failure that could land a rider in the hospital.

    That being said, I can see having a different oppinioin on damage that is behind the rear binding as a failure back there is likely to be less damaging to the rider . . . unless you are "pulling the e-brake" do avoid a crash and the board fails at that point.

    For me, extending the life of a damaged metal board is not worth the increased potential for the sled ride of shame for me, or worse yet, someone else that may get caught up in the accident.

    Call Bruce. . . have him build you another work of art ;-) Hang that one on a wall.
    ~tb

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~tb View Post
    I have been meaning to post back to this thread for some time now, and have just found a minute or two.

    I was discussing this thread with two other hardbooters on the east coast and we were discussing my practice of retiring any metal board that has damage to the metal, even a small nick. Check out Sean Martin's video linked below at ~0:45 he shows the one alarming property of titinal (it is VERY brittle).

    Wow, even after a small nick? That may going overboard. Yes, titanal is brittle by itself, but it is contained in a composite structure composed of the core, epoxy adhesives, and layers of fiberglass. Personally, small nicks don't worry me. Just take a look at the abuse ski racers give their metal layered GS and Slalom skis, they are always nicked up. Especially Slalom skis, most of them look like a war zone after a few seasons, and I can't recall too many of them having failures.

    I think the first generation Kesslers had a propensity of cracking simply because the metal was exposed and not fully contained in a composite construction. The SG boards always seemed more durable because the metal layer was contained internally in the composite. Most of the second generation metal boards now have similar construction, and should be much more durable to the point where small side nicks won't have any bearing on their life expectancy.

  22. #22
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    My Coiler AM 176 got a ding that looks a lot like that on its 4th or 5th day out- right after the check had cleared.

    5 years later, the board is FINALLY starting to show signs of fatigue. Is it the ding, or the mileage? You decide. (120 or so days on snow, BTW)

  23. #23
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    Race skis have have had Ti layers for years. They take quite a beating - ever looked at a junior racer's SL skis? Chips all around the edges and pole dents in the top sheet. They seem to keep going just fine.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~tb View Post
    Hang that one on a wall.
    Bobby got that board at the end of last season. It has like,...3 days on it.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobD View Post
    Race skis have have had Ti layers for years. They take quite a beating - ever looked at a junior racer's SL skis? Chips all around the edges and pole dents in the top sheet. They seem to keep going just fine.
    pretty much my opinion, just watch out for cracks, bubbles and lifting.....

  26. #26
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    Oh dear that board looks so dangerous you better not even sit next to it. Better wrap it up and ship it to me for extended testing Ill pay shipping and handling fee.

  27. #27
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    happened to me today

    I don't know how, when or even if it happened in the baord rack...looks like a slice from another board/ski into the abs and into the topsheet and looks similar to Bobby's ding??
    Same advice on this one? Its on the rear left side about more than 3/4's back to the tail...
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  28. #28
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    couple more

    A few more...not sure if i should go the route suggested
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  29. #29
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    Yikes. I'll let others respond on the repair. But I'm starting to like the trend of builders insetting the titanal down behind the sidewall more and more.
    "''planter ben red' can be put very simply into ''the board stopped freakin fast kinda on its own''--Bomber-member Pat

  30. #30
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    No Worries

    Talked to that Coiler guy a while back about this,I whacked 2 good sized dents in my VSR, Ithink by kicking it to get snow off my boots (Fintecs). Just file down the burr, epoxy if you want, keep an eye on it and ride the sh#t out of it.

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