td3 torque

[yooperboy]

Does anyone have a torque spec for the td-3 si with yellow e-rings or any suggestions as to what is enough or not enough tightness. bomber says min. of 3.5 threads. That may be fine with the red elastomer but I would rather have a torque value to start from and tweak from there.

[fin]

yooperboy,

Actually, the torque of those mounting screws has nothing to do with what E-ring you use. You are compressing the E-ring for about one turn of the screw but AFTER that your are tightening against the Center Disk to the board. A solid.

The 3.5 thread engagement is a guide for safety. We have seen some boards with VERY heavy counter sinks and you need to be aware of how much thread engagement you have.

[SEJ]

I think this question was asked before, without ever being answered correctly. Too many subjective answers without an actual spec.
I would also like to know what the correct torque spec. is for binding mounting screws. It would be nice to KNOW that they are tightened correctly.

[corey_dyck]

Note that any time this has been asked, Fin has simply stated to make sure the screws are tight enough to hold the center disc against the board. It certainly appears that's really all that's needed to have a safe connection. Well, that's assuming you get at least the 3.5 turns of engagement mentioned above.

I won't even try to speak for anyone but myself, but I'd be nervous to specify an exact torque for fear of how it might be misused by stupid people. I know in my industry if you specify a torque, you'd darn-well better use a torque wrench every time you assemble something and should torque-stripe it too so that you can verify at a glance that all fasteners have been properly torqued. Otherwise, if the worst were to happen, the lawyers and wannabe lawyers jump all over you claiming that you're negligent. That would make any demo tent a nightmare. Yeah, it sounds ridiculous but that's the world we live in now.

Having watched numerous bindings being installed by numerous industry professionals at the two SES events I've been at, it seems that any torque above 'screws rattling loose' and below 'stripped inserts' is acceptable. Most seem to shoot for a little over what you could achieve with a simple straight screwdriver.

Remember that most Burton plates are attached with 25% fewer bolts and they typically use Phillips head screws, so they are only tightened by screwdrivers most of the time. And they're fine.

[Mike T]

My rule of thumb, that has served me well over the years...

Grease the underside of the heads of the bolts as suggested, use a T-handle wrench with a 6" shaft and tighten with my left hand (I'm right-handed) without exerting myself. I've never had TD2/TD3 loosen using this method and always been able to remove them w/ my right hand. If I use the same wrench with my right hand, I'm pretty sure I overdo it... had trouble removing them on a few occasions.

YMMV, I'm not an expert, blah blah blah...

[Hans]

My rule of thumb, that has served me well over the years...

Grease the underside of the heads of the bolts as suggested, use a T-handle wrench with a 6" shaft and tighten with my left hand (I'm right-handed) without exerting myself. I've never had TD2/TD3 loosen using this method and always been able to remove them w/ my right hand. If I use the same wrench with my right hand, I'm pretty sure I overdo it... had trouble removing them on a few occasions.

YMMV, I'm not an expert, blah blah blah...

Interesting and a good instruction, but why using the grease, Mike?

[Puddy Tat]

Interesting and a good instruction, but why using the grease, Mike?

Probably helps prevent galvanic corrosion between the stainless steel bolt head and the aluminum center disc.

[www.oldsnowboards.com]

I think this question was asked before, without ever being answered correctly. Too many subjective answers without an actual spec.
I would also like to know what the correct torque spec. is for binding mounting screws. It would be nice to KNOW that they are tightened correctly.

Scott, looking up the torque spec in a machinists handbook or the like will likely give you the general range of ft lbs, or inch pounds. As simple a question as it may seem, it could be a slippery slope for the person that answers it. You know they would have answered it before if there was not a good reason to side step it. Just the way it is.


Couple links to demonstrate how easy or difficult the answer might be.
http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque1.htm
http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html