Hi Sebastian
Common knowledge on heel/toe list is 6 deg (both). Ace is right, go to bomber and buy them there, or go to PHK (http://www.phksnow.com/uk/home_uk.html based in Italy) and buy them there saying to Fulvio that Obio One suggested you this...he is a good friend of mine...
all experimentations with deg toe and heel are the proof that nothing is written on stone...except the 0 deg angles for the front foot
obi one
Thanks, that is what I heard. On the other hand, on my SK200 I have 3deg front and back and all is comfortable.
I fabricated a wedge like the one here: http://www.phksnow.com/uk/skwa_uk.html (I believe it's you, isn't it?) but in 3deg flavour, I made it from polyethylene. If this technology proves itself, I will post how I did that. I like doing things myself...
yeah it's me ....
cool for 3deg both front and back or even less (have you ever tried flat?) flat will make you feel more "direct" on the skwal as far as the front boot has a certain degree of freedom to flex the calf backwards. If not, you feel to be constatly pushed (your weight I mean) forwards too much...
In any case,...the riding feel will tell your body if you are too radical or not, too extreme or not...
It may all depend on boots' setup as well. Some time ago you mentioned that you prefer stiff boots, and I ride my Raichles with ACSS spring system.
[Yoda] The softer flex the boot is, the more tollerant to the lifts it becomes, perhaps? [/Yoda]![]()
think about water monoski...they do not use lifts because they use very soft boots...the harder the boot ... the more difficult is to play with the lifts...
I am experimenting ski boots and a complete step-in set up (i.e., step-in system front and back of the foot ...similar to the old burton 4x4 binding.....)
obi one
It is, I am reliably informed, quite possible to superglue jelly[1] to a plate. Doing so does not, however, make the jelly any less wobbly.
Simon
[1] Jell-O, for those living on the other side of the Atlantic
You lost me there, mate.![]()
My Volkl Monocarver has an 11.5 waist and the cateks are 12 or 12.5 My Donek Skwal is just a tiny bit wider than the Cateks. I think a little overhang would be fine. Most people won't be getting it layed over to 90* so it shouldn't be an issue. Besides if they work and you don't like the overhang cut them.
Don
Feed the addiction...![]()
What I was trying to say is that if you're looking for rigidity, the first thing to do is remove your snowboard boots from the equation, not blow the best part of 500 bucks on stiffer bindings.
The "stepin" question for skwals is made more interesting by the fact that a good number of people ride with a ski boot up front and a snowboard boot in the rear.
Not that I am an expert, but I think you get boot-out (at 0 deg) sooner than a binding-out. The first clasp on my Raichle would catch before anything else.
Is stiffer better? Hell yes.
Can you imagine running a stiff alpine board with softboots and rental bindings, even if you could magically disappear the boot out problems?
Or, nearer to the point, riding a pair of top-end skis, as fast as you possibly can, wearing a pair of TR9s? Or Raichle / Deeluxe snowboard boots? Even my AF700s are less stiff than my work-supplied Adrenalines, which are, in themselves, way too floppy to be put near any sort of performance ski.
I hate to say it, but snowboard boots are woeful. they work for snowboarding due to short sole length, but when boot out is removed from the equation, as it is with skwal, I don't see any advantage over ski boots.
You are right!
I tried my friend's Xennon skis today (soft titanal/carbon recreational carver). However, I was in my Dalbellos, softened and BTSed for snbowbaording. While they worked great on the flatter runs and slow speed, I was all over the place on stepper and choppier... I even got worried that I might tweek the ankles.
______
On the side note, reading this thread, I got inspired to pull my Easy Jungle from storage and take it for a spin after 2 or 3 years. What a hoot!
I pretty much forgot how to set it and ride it and it took couple of runs... I changed binding setup every few runs. I established that it could be ridden in about 3 distinct techniques:
- Wider stance, small angle in front, splay at the back, bindings somewhat forward of the sweet spot, led to a "snowboardish" type of ride. Efficient, yet unconfortable for the rear hip and groin.
- Narrower stance, 90 front, 85 back, knee behind the knee, ahead of sweet spot, was pretty usable and didn't feel like a snowboard. Still some discomfort in the rear groin.
- Narrower stance, 90 front, 90 back, rear knee to the side of the front knee, on the sweet spot, didn't lead to any discomfort, pretty efficient (but I need to explore it more). Felt a bit like, ummm, skiing.
Some funny comments from people in the lift lines... See the "Heard in..." thread.
Stepping back onto a (wider) snowboard right afer, was a bit commical - I almost killed myself. It took me almost 2 runs to "relearn" the alpine.
Anyhow, it was fun, I'll ride it more often next year, I promisse![]()
INSTRUCTION | CASI L2 - hard boots all the way! | Vancouver Carvers' Diaries 2012/13 | Items for sale
Well, it is more a problem than disadvantage, but ski boots' sole length is just inapropriate for most skwal bindings if your leg is big enough. I am right on the edge (28.5 mondo) with most bindings I tried.
Anyway, I am so used to snowboarding with ACSS that I can't really tell if stiffening the boots would be beneficial for me. I like the way I can move front to back and absorb bumps using ankles. I guess I will have to try to remove the spring system and see if it feels any better (I can't really see how it could be more stable at speed - my SK200 is rock solid upto mach 3).
Interesting food for thought.![]()
BlueB,
thanks for sharing your skwal tests and trials with different set-ups...very interesting indeed!...If I might add a comment is to try some modern skwals next year...do not care about brands or types...if you get a chance try some modern ones and compare with your Easy Jungle...you will be surprised "positively", I suppose.
Obi One
PS-this thread has hit on something very good...hope this trend would increase next year....
The easy jungle would end up directly thrown in the bin i bet
These boards were not too bad 10 years ago to learn skwal but now the should be forbidden, they don't really show what a skwal can be (the SK200 was already a better one) !
For those in the area you should consider next week event :
http://www.skwalusa.com/blog/
A bit too far from France unfortunately![]()
Last edited by zarkod; April 9th, 2011 at 02:48 PM.
Or maybe?
.
INSTRUCTION | CASI L2 - hard boots all the way! | Vancouver Carvers' Diaries 2012/13 | Items for sale
I'm sure it's a "Burton Alp" of Skwals. Yet, Alp has very important rolle in alpine - it's great for learning, then it serves as ok all-mountain board later...
I was actually impressed that Jungle wasn't too upset by choppy conditions I rode it in. It plowed through happily and didn't bounce around.
.
INSTRUCTION | CASI L2 - hard boots all the way! | Vancouver Carvers' Diaries 2012/13 | Items for sale
Yes very nice last picture, if you can do that with a lamy jungle what would it be with a radical skwal board!
INSTRUCTION | CASI L2 - hard boots all the way! | Vancouver Carvers' Diaries 2012/13 | Items for sale
BlueB,
the way you disengage (exit) the turns in the pictures shows that your weight is in the back...and the dynamics of it is clear by the pressure of the tail and the forward part of your skwal going up with no contact with the snow...good...most of the time you keep your arms simmetrical ...(except a single picture where you did not lined up)....arms are pushed forward...et the end of the turns...good. I just need a picture of the way you "engage" the next turn. In fact, one of the most diffcult processes is to move from your backward position (in the end of the turn) to enter the next turn...if you do it nicely ...well...then Zarkod is totally right...and you might need to think to test and ride a modern skwal...but keep the easy jungle
...
if you are interested go to skwal zone web site and check out the info about technique...you are on the right track...
also if you like go to my site "skwal club italia" and download this http://www.skwalclubitalia.it/Englis...ANCED%20OK.pdf
PS - send around the clips! c'mon! we, skwalers, need more evidence!!!!
INSTRUCTION | CASI L2 - hard boots all the way! | Vancouver Carvers' Diaries 2012/13 | Items for sale
Hey B, are you skwalin' with your Dalbello's or are you in Head's now? From the pics it looks like Head buckles... (I recognize the Head's are like CarveX/CRX and are the same shell minus din soles...just picked up a pair of CRX Freeride's cheap too). Anyway, great pics above! I have yet to try a skwal but is on my list...![]()
Dalbellos, always.
INSTRUCTION | CASI L2 - hard boots all the way! | Vancouver Carvers' Diaries 2012/13 | Items for sale
yes! your pics sequence are important!! and informative...to avoid counter-rotation (either heel or toe side) think "motorbike turns"...think where are the arms when you turn with a street-motorbike...think about your body posture while turning with a bike...and counter rotation will progressively disappear...also, "charge" the skwal nose before your turn is completed...this will prevent counter rotation as well...
here are some of my pics about the arms positioning in the "lead" and
"disengagement" phases of skwal turns.
Also check out this clip and verify how I "exit" (or disengage) all turns...every time my right arm is not symmetrical with the left one...I loose balance and make errors...
http://youtu.be/_z0Gc1yFoAY
Obi One
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