The plate's flex will produce a degree of shock absorption but STIFF plates are thought at present to produce the best performance. The board also absorbs and releases the forces applied to it.
The pivots allow the board to move independently of the plate. The motion of the snowboard is essentially identical whether the "(sine) attack" (upwards/ downwards deflection and release) is applied at the front or rear of the board, or whether the hinge/slide unit is front or back. I've tried it on a test bed setup and seen this with my own eyes.
Only a decellerative force, applied from the nose, along the length of the board, will produce a difference in motion when the hinge/slide is at front rather than at the rear. Bending of the board will occur between the nose and the hinge only pivot. So, with the hinge/slide at the front clearly more of the board is available to soak up the decellerative force.
Last edited by SunSurfer; November 3rd, 2010 at 01:47 PM.
Alan McKenzie (a.k.a. SunSurfer)
I ordered a Kessler SL but it's not arrived yet and sod's law says I'll have to spend my time riding heli-powder all season. But if I get to the piste, then I have the right board for that.
Not sure I like the idea of a groomed lady. I only rode there once but ungroomed was pretty good (163 Nitro Scorpion SL board in about 1994).
Wow Phil you have been trying for a new board for ages and low and behold you go full on and get a race machine. You will not be disappointed, you will probably want a 185 next.
Don't know why you are perturbed by a groomed lady the last time I saw you on the web, you were all over a frozen backside!
Looks good BlueB.
Is the plastic tough enought to thread and then hold like metal?
Why not run a single axle?
Measuring from top of board to top of plate, how tall is it?
Simple and clean build.
Last edited by www.oldsnowboards.com; November 3rd, 2010 at 11:33 PM.
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The treads on the half axles do not bear any pulling loads, they just stop the axle from turning. Plastic wil be ideal for that.
If the question was about the treads in the sliders, there I have 20mm of tread. Should be ample...
It could be a single axle if I ever go CNC, or propper machine shop. I do not have enough travel on my press-drill to do bore for the single axle in one go, so 2 half-axles were a simple solution.
31mm tall, from top of the board to top of the plate.
Well, it looks like I'm not the only one....
And Boris, a couple questions. Is there sufficient clearance between the board and plate? Or between the plate slider blocks and the board? Also, you just threaded the UHMDPE for the bolts into the slider and pivot blocks? I ended up through-bolting mine with a plate of stainless steel. Also stiffened the entire plate with a strip of maple. It was really flexy before that. My design is (obviously) based on Sean's. (Remember Sean, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!)
Last edited by Boarder_Ted; November 4th, 2010 at 08:15 AM. Reason: clarity
Last edited by Donek; November 4th, 2010 at 07:42 AM.
Sean, if you are referring to my plate, the slider you are looking at is an early version. I have since modified it to give a longer travel length. I do wish I had access to a CNC machine. Your work is beautiful. Makes mine look like it was whittled by one armed monkeys.
As far as how well the UHMW bearing surfaces hold up, I'll let you know. :-)
BTW what are your thoughts on tapping the UHMDPE?
Last edited by Boarder_Ted; November 4th, 2010 at 08:12 AM. Reason: Additional Info
The metal under the Delrin is 1/8" Stainless Steel. Curious though that you don't feel aluminum will support the load but don't question the use of totally unsupported plastic or the point load applied by the 3/8" bolts BlueB used.
Speaking of which, doesn't the use of 2 bolts rather than a through-bolt essentially create a kind of hinge point putting additional stress on only 2 of the mounting bolts? I would think a solid shaft helps spread out the load between the 4 bolts holding the UHMDPE to the board.
Good luck DIY'ers, and I mean that sincerely. Bruce Varsava was telling me at the ECES that a bunch of his fellow provincial racers were home-brewing Apex knock-off plates by cutting up old snowboards, and that most of them were having a lot of trouble. I guess many were too flexible, and had improper axle placement. The action of the plate and the board would actually combine to a detrimental result, worse than having no plate at all.
I look forward to hearing from you guys this winter!
I hear ya, Jack. I looked at many of the designs and felt Sean's was the right combination of design/strength/simplicity. It was also something I could actually stand a chance of duplicating in my shop. As for stiffness, I did originally build it from an old K2 Fatbob with no additional support. It was like being on a trampoline. Way too much flex. So I stole yet another idea from Sean and ran a maple stringer up the center on the underside. It stiffened things up nicely. I feel much better about it now.
The placement of the axles was in part dictated by the inserts on the board. I think it'll be ok. The binding center is just onboard of the shaft. I can work with the position slightly, bringing one foot or the other more directly over the pivot but I'm starting here. I guess we'll see. I have virtually nothing invested except time, with most of the materials being things I had kicking around. I think I spent $7 on the stainless axles.
And seeing as how you're just up the road, if you're nice to me, I might even let you try it out.
Really cool to see all the new designs. Id love to see a hardware kit that could adapt to home made plates.
You can take Donek hw-kit and put it your own plate.
i'm assuming the donek hardware conversion kits don't have all the necessary bits for a diy plate (ie, there's some common hardware between the two mounting types). correct?
Last edited by xy9ine; November 4th, 2010 at 01:17 PM.
i'm assuming the donek hardware conversion kits don't have all the necessary bits for a diy plate (ie, there's some common hardware between the two mounting types). correct?[/QUOTE]
I would not be able to use Sean's "hardware kit" on my plate. He builds metal reinforcements into his that my plate does not incorporate. Afraid his hardware would pull right through a homemade plate. Unless you made it from scratch....
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