Personal Best Carving Photos

[Vahur]

This was taken ... at ECS09 and its the first photo of me riding I have seen for a long time. I love it but I think I should maybe riding at SES09 as I ride more race style than extreme carve.

I'm sure that none will complain if you continue to ride this way during ECS.
Not that there is something wrong with SES in Aspen, I myself am thinking about hitting those slopes once again sometimes in future...

Also if anyone thinks I am doing something wrong, please tell me as I am always looking to improve.

Looks nice to me, but what do I know about technique

For race style heelside turn suggestions maybe this thread is of help:
Backside turn....

As per last comment by philfell you should rise your leading hand to avoid hitting snow with it.

[Willow 15]

When i raced, a long time ago it was with ski gates so we had to punch/body check them out of the way(if you are any good the boot's/ankles got a hammering). No broken wrists just a wickedly fast punches if trouble came our way. Bring back long poles.

[oldvolvosrule]

Willow, your technique is looking pretty good to me. Great Photo!!!

[BlueB]

Rider: BlueB
Gear: Prior WCR T 173, TD2+suspenssion, Dalbello Carvex
Photos by: Rod "Softbooter" Dorras

[BlueB]

Rider: BlueB
Gear: Prior WCR T 173, TD2+suspenssion, Dalbello Carvex
Photos by: Rod "Softbooter" Dorras

[scrutton]

Some pics shot at Whistler on my first week on my Chris Prior custom.
These were shot about ten years ago, Id guess.

[Willow 15]

Loving those pants, I still have my Fishpaw Schaffner jacket and a pair of moto x gloves.

[CarvingScooby]

Rider: BlueB
Gear: Prior WCR T 173, TD2+suspenssion, Dalbello Carvex
Photos by: Rod "Softbooter" Dorras

Nice shots, wish the toe side was taken from different angle.
I hope Rod made more pixs. Who else was on the slope that day?
Man o man, got to fix me ankle sooner.

PS: Sud compare with the WCR T 177.

Cheers
Roy

[KingCrimson]

DECAMBER! Wow!

[BlueB]

Scrutton? It looks more like a nose fold... I wander what happened right after that shot?
Below is our local "boardbender", Dave. Photo by Rod Dorras.

Bro, besides me, there was Dave, Rod and Tony "Cousin", then later Jeff joined in, too.

Yup, I could take your 177 for a spin, but what I'm going to find out that I don't know already? I rode Prior metals 183/19.5 custom, 173/19.5, and 177/23 FatJack - they are all great. I know that 177 is bang on flex for you, as it is a tad stiffer then 173 and you are a tad heavier then me. However, recover soon, then you can take both 173 and 177 for a spin, yourself!

[Kimo]

I was thinking nose fold too. Either that or a catapult.

[scrutton]

Testing my memory now, but yeah as I recall. the nose did fold, then sprung back, and I managed to ride it out. Think I was loading it up quite a bit for that photo.

The nose bend - is that a common phenomenon?

The board was fine, and I still ride it - its my main carving stick.

Second question - now that I have three alpine boards, I just made the discovery yesterday, that the progression in length is directly proportional to the decrease in width. ie. my 190cm board is the skinniest, and my 166cm board is the widest. The Prior (175cm) shown in the photos is bang in the middle.

Is this just a function of getting the similar performance out of a board, you have to have a certain amount of physical material to work with, in terms of providing stiffness and response, or is it perhaps due to short slalom boards working at lower speeds, that maybe you can get away with a fatter board; easier to ride at lower speeds? ie. everything is moving at slower speeds, so you have time to make the wider edge to edge transition.

[KingCrimson]

I think it's ultimately down to the flex pattern and where you are in the turn. If you're in the middle of your hard "drive" through the fall line, that's probably when it will be kinked the most.

Look at Swoards- they almost all kink in the nose.

There's a picture of Jack on a big Donek FC (?) where the nose is WAY up.

There's definitely something aesthetically pleasing about that Prior under Dave's feet. Perfect radial flex.

[bonestock]

Really really nice pictures!


Backside edge... I was never able to figure that one out. Don't get me wrong, I can carve on the frontside edge no problem (lay flat on the ground), but to lean really far on the backside edge (lay flat on the ground) while carving, well, no. Maybe someone could give me a couple of hints... And the board I ride is PJ 5.4 (which IMO is capable of doing so, the problem is the test pilot).

[BlueB]

The best place to learn EC technique on-line:
http://www.extremecarving.com/index.html

I'm not an expert, but few key words are:
- commitment
- rotation
- timing of flexion/extension

Also, the boards have come long way since your PJ... Although, PJ is probably better choice then some of the supper stiff narrow boards of the area that followed the PJs.
Metal made it easier for everyone, EC included.

[bonestock]

The best place to learn EC technique on-line:
http://www.extremecarving.com/index.html

Also, the boards have come long way since your PJ... Although, PJ is probably better choice then some of the supper stiff narrow boards of the area that followed the PJs.
Metal made it easier for everyone, EC included.

Thanks for the tips! Now let's see..

• Don't set more than 55 degrees on the front foot. Check!
  
• Set the rear foot 5 to 8 degrees less than the front one. Check!
  
• Set enough stance between the feet and place them in the middle of the contact length. Check!
  
• Avoid any canting pad (set your bindings flat on the board), WRONG! because it harms significantly the correct body movement and edge control. The pad under the heel of the rear foot pushes the chest in counter-rotation position (facing the nose) and reduces the frontside edge grip under this foot (the nose will bite the snow, which causes a beautiful frontside flip!). The lateral canting pads put the knees together and reduce the backside edge grip under the rear foot (the tail will sideslip) and also reduce the movement ability.
• So getting rid of the cant plate is needed and is the first step! And all these years I tought the little plastic device was helping me.Furthermore, the board bending during the laid turns already induces a canting under both feet.
• Set the same calf canting to both of your boots .

[carvedog]

Thanks for the tips! Now let's see..

• Don't set more than 55 degrees on the front foot. Check!
  
• Set the rear foot 5 to 8 degrees less than the front one. Check!
  
• Set enough stance between the feet and place them in the middle of the contact length. Check!
  
• Avoid any canting pad (set your bindings flat on the board), WRONG! because it harms significantly the correct body movement and edge control. The pad under the heel of the rear foot pushes the chest in counter-rotation position (facing the nose) and reduces the frontside edge grip under this foot (the nose will bite the snow, which causes a beautiful frontside flip!). The lateral canting pads put the knees together and reduce the backside edge grip under the rear foot (the tail will sideslip) and also reduce the movement ability.
• So getting rid of the cant plate is needed and is the first step! And all these years I tought the little plastic device was helping me.Furthermore, the board bending during the laid turns already induces a canting under both feet.
• Set the same calf canting to both of your boots .

So were you quoting someone's list of things there. Black is someone?

Red is you?

You have confused me.

[BlueB]

Well, you need to go by the width of the board and size of your boots, really. I those pics I ride 19.5 wide Prior metal, which dictated 60/55 angles.
Also, I ride 6deg heel lift back and 3deg toe lift forward - this is highly individual.

We better start an EC tips tread before we totally highjacked this tread...
Can one of the mods copy-paste the last few posts into the new tread in the main forum?

[bonestock]

So were you quoting someone's list of things there. Black is someone?

Red is you?

You have confused me.

Red is me. the black part is from Extremecarving.com

As for moving this into a new thread. I agree 100%

[BlueB]

Well, we can transfer it to the new tread oureslves:
Start a new tread, say "EC tips" in the main forum;
Copy/Paste your first EC related question (post #165), then delete it in this tread;
Then I copy/past my reply, delete;
Then you, with your next, and so on until it's all in the new tread...

[caspercarver]

today @ teton village, sorry bout the links but they charge $45. ea for these photos.

http://jackson.elevationimaging.com/...441&start=126#

my favorite is #5352



http://jackson.elevationimaging.com/...441&start=207#

[Kimo]

Got a helmet now, huh?

[caspercarver]

since i have started riding switch, i always wear a helmet now. caught an edge today and i think i may have a bruised rib.

[RicHard]

Is there anything true, in this picture?! ;-)
The sky and the sun should be fakes...
Photoshop lighting effects (or lens flare) and some more effects... ;-)
I would suggest to give a sort of perspective to the clouds... ;-)

Or... is it just my opinion? ;-)
Ciao!

[Cuban Carving Gooding]

[carvedog]

Busted!

Didn't like the trees? Don't you carve in Asspen?

[glenn]

maybe ?

BobD

(credit upper photo : David Cook)

Bob...Had that first photo as my background for the longest time...GREAT form! What I aspire to

[Chubz]

I dont have many to chose from but here you go form BMES 2009. Last one I just fiddled with, it was a bit of a sloppy day and we were throwing some meaty roosters. I wonder what it would look like on one of those days where the snow is light and fluffy.

[shawndoggy]

Glued the now infamous helmet cam to the front of the board for a run. Didn't work so well (will post the vid in a few) but I did think this pic was pretty cool.

[Kimo]

This one looks like you're riding in poo.