M8 screws on TD1 0 degree cant disk

[Gabe T]

I recently changed my TD1 binding setup on a new board after I picked up a Coiler this year. (I changed from a 3 degree disk to a 0 degree disk on the front binding). On a recent trip, I switched the bindings onto another board. When I took the cant disk off the board, I noticed that the screws that mount the binding base plate into the disks had actually caused a bit of an indentation on the board’s topsheet. Has anyone else noticed this? I guess the screws sit pretty flush with the bottom of the cant disk when tightened. Do shorter screws exist so that they don't penetrate through to the board surface when tightened?

Gabe

[skategoat]

Gabe:

Get shorter screws. Go to Brofasco or other industrial fastener company with your existing screws and ask for shorter ones. Don't waste your time at Home Depot, they won't have them.

Get about 5 turns on the screws and they should hold fine.

Henry

[Enzo]

When I was looking for new screws for my TD1's someone directed me to www.mcmaster.com Go to page 2938 on their website. I haven't ordered from them yet, but they have numerous sizes in the M8 stainless steel style.

[bschurman]

I doubt it's the screws that are putting marks in the topsheet. It's probably the actual hole for the screw. To verify this just assemble the top of the binding to the cant disk off the board and see how far the M8 screw comes down. If it's the hole then you should relieve the threaded portion on the bottom of the disk so it doesn't dig in.

The 16mm length M8 should be the right size for all the cant disks. The 16mm on the flat head is measured from the top of the head to the bottom of the threaded section.

->Ben

[trailertrash]

hey ben?
your a nerd.
john

[bschurman]

At least I am semi social.

[trailertrash]

at least when your not organizing your collection of m8 screws you are right?

:p

[Gabe T]

Not positive if it's the hole or the screw, but the screw does seem to sit pretty flush with the bottom of the disk when I screw it through the base plate and disk when it's off the board. I imagine when I tighten it while it's on the board it's going to go a bit deeper.

Ben, not sure what you meant by "relieving the thread" as wouldn't that mean I would in effect not be completely tightening the screws? I normally tighten as much as I can by hand using the standard allen key that the bindings come with, but I guess you meant to not tighten it up as much?

Gabe

[bschurman]

I actually meant that you may want to sort of round out the hole on the bottom of the disk. Like chamfer the edges of it so there is nothing sharp sticking into the board. You can get an M8 in a 14mm if you would like but I would worry that there is not enough thread engagement with that. Perhaps if the bolt is that close you could just grind the bottom a little to get to where you need to be.

BTW the 14mm scews can be bought at mcmaster.com and the part number that you need is 92125A281. If you can get four full turns of engagement with them, then you are fine.

->Ben

[Al T.]

I checked out one of my older boards and it did have the marks Gabe is talking about.
I agree with Ben that the holes themselves can also mark the topsheet, but I'm pretty sure the marks on my board are from the screws.

Al