View Full Version : Snow Pro Race Plate setup
January 19th, 2009, 06:43 PM
I have some Snow Pro Race Plates and they have no instructions so I am at a loss as to how you adjust the lift/cant on these. They seem to come with built in cant and also 4 angled shims that would adjust the cant slightly and one with no angle about 5mm thick. I am not seeing how to adjust these much at all. Could not find any info at all about adjusting these. I did find a sweet guide on binding installation by Jack Michaud that I will use once I understand how these bindings adjust.
January 19th, 2009, 07:26 PM
You should also have a bag of different colored screws of different lengths as well right?
Step 1. Loosen both bail blocks (One phillips screw at each end of the binding running with the long axis of the binding) so they are far back enough to see the screws that hold the bail blocks to the baseplate.
If I recall correctly, the snowpros ship with both bindings set at 3 degrees inward cant. There are many options you have from this point. You can reverse the shim on your front binding to make it flat, and add a shim to your rear to make it 6 degrees. You can reverse the shims in both bindings to ride flat, or you can reverse the shim in your rear binding to make it flat, and leave the front one alone.
If you want lift, stack two shims with the thick edges opposed so cant wise they cancel each other out, and just lift the bail block higher.
Just use the appropriate length screw if you remove or add a shim. Just use a screw that's long enough to go all the way through the baseplate, but short enough to not hit your topsheet. If you're a thread or two from being flush with the underside of the baseplate, it will be allright but don't push it farther than that.
January 19th, 2009, 07:56 PM
Thanks that makes sense. I just thought I would have more adjusting options than that. I hate to ask but what would be a good starting point for a beginning carver? I was thinking a little heel lift for the rear but what about the cant? I expect to have to run binding angles of at least 60 degrees because of board width and large feet.
January 19th, 2009, 10:23 PM
Use the slanted shims to kill the built-in cant on all the pads.
Use 6mm thick shim to add heel lift at the rear bindiong.
Use higher toe studs to add tiny bit of toe lift in front binding.
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