new board prep

[Rambo]

Hey I was wondering if there was any thing special you guys do wax and tune wise on a new deck. I just got a new quiver. it has been such a long time since I have had new sticks. I got 3 new coilers this year.

172 all mountain
166 pr sl
184 pr gs with superboard.

I already rode the am wow That thing is sick

Thanks
Erik

[Randy S.]

Ship me the 184 and I'll prep it for you. I should be able to get it back to you by mid-May no problem. I'm very jealous. Great choice of sticks. Post some reviews once you get on the snow with them.

In the meantime, check out Tognar Basics (http://www.tognar.com/tunebasics.html) for basic info and Tognar Detailed Info (http://www.tognar.com/volkl.html) for more advanced info.

Something tells me Bruce probably prepped your boards pretty well for you though. You might check with him on what he's already done before you make changes. Have fun.

[Bruce Varsava]

There are only 2 steps on the boards that I don't do. The graphics and the base finishing. Just can't afford a $40,000 stone grinder.
The bases should be pretty flat when you get them and the edges are most likely in the 89 degree range. Depends on the mood of the grinder that day!
You should just consider a slight base bevel to make the board a bit more friendly by being less likely to catch. I don't have them do it as you can't put it back once its off for those who like it flat. The edges are done with an abrasive wheel so you won't be winning any races on them but they are pretty sharp. Honing would be a good idea. Wax, Wax and more wax. I only put on one coat and you should slap on at least a couple more to really start to get it loaded up.
Then you can go out and have some fun.
I still wish I had a quiver of boards like that!

Bruce Varsava

[Rambo]

Thanks Bruce Like I said I rode the am last week and wow It was like nothing I have ever rode in 15 years of riding.

So warm soft wax or cold hard
or some thing in the middle
Thanks
Erik

[dragonfly jones]

This years early season prep was is.

Scrape off old summer storage wax and rewax with a soft wax to get any old wax off brushed it, cooled it and did it again. Brushed it.

Got a new stone grind for man made snow - it's way more aggressive and strips wax off fast. Small structure mini chevrons. Will switch to a secret one in late december or early january. Brushed out any hairs and other junk.

Cold temp heated in with fiberline so as not to scorch the bases, light scrape and brush, then two coats of universal wax with graphite - diffuses static electricity from man made / early season pellet snow. Brushed, brushed brushed.

Dominator fg 77 on top, brushed, brushed brushed, soft one to polish the base and bagged it for Thursday Friday Saturday and Sunday, lucky me.

Don't even get me started on edge work, damn that took some serious time.

Dragonfly Jones

[dragonfly jones]

Every second day, at least two new coats of wax go on, these boards are an investment in cash, time and effort to get them, best to treat them right, much like a woman, if you want them to act and perform properly.

Believe that! Ya heard!

[Bordy]

I'm sure Bruce and his boys handled it but, learn how. It may be at the site randy posted! I always round off my nose and tail(switch riding;) So that Its supersmooth. They do not need to be sharp. And I truly beleve it makes a differance( Just ask anyone I've T-Boned)!

[Bruce Varsava]

Some good points here especially the detuning. On rare occasions I get replies from customers that the boards feel too stiff when they get them and when I asked how they were tuned, usually it was out of the box and right onto the snow! They are getting too much power and most likely it is a longer board than they have previously had so that compounds the feeling of unmanageability which is seen as a stiffness concern. The thought is, I spent my hard earned money on a longer board and I want to get the use of all of it! Nice theory but it will probably cause you grief in the long run. I also have heard form high level racers that they have have lost races due to wrong detuning so it is a critical thing.
I'm really technical ( or weird!) when it comes to detuning as I do it asymmetrically. I detune a little more on the front heel side and rear toe side where there is more distance from your boot to the tip or tail. Kinda makes you symmetrical board a bit asymmetrical!
Its only a small differnce and may be more a mantal thing but thats all it takes sometimes to perform better. This season I started putting different color plastic in the nose and tail than is on the sidewall so you have a distinct point to know where the contact surface ends and an easy to see reference point for detuning. Gee, that ought to make the board at least twice as fast!!!

Cheers, Bruce Varsava