Questions on the new TD2 here

[fin]

The purpose of the thread is to give everyone a place to ask questions, concerns, and comments about the new TD2 snowboard plate binding we just released.

Rather than ask and answer the same questions over and over, we are going to try and keep it all here.

So ask away, and myself (Fin) or Bob Jenney or the other super-brains that hang out here will take care of your questions.

TD2 Step-In (http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/td2_stepin.cfm)
TD2 Standard (http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/td2_standard.cfm)

* Please try to use this thread just for asking questions on the TD2, thank you.

[nils]

Was really worth the wait!!
Your TD2 is simply amazing, the website is also really a clean work: congratulations on the work!!
Now you might want to get some sleep!!!

Nils
:):):)

[Baka Dasai]

These look super good - it seems like a lot of thought has gone into ironing out all the minor kinks from the TD1 - greater cant/lift options, reducing vibration, reducing weight, intec pin visibility in the SI, etc.

There's only one thing that I don't quite get from a design point of view - the spring loaded bail. The problem I have had with the TD1 was the spring causing the bail to flop down on the binding. This could be fixed by bending the bail a little to increase the friction, thus cancelling out the effect of the spring. Which is better than having the bail always flop down, but puts you at risk of having the bail flop in the other direction, especially if you accidently tread on it.

So how is it meant to work? How is a stronger spring better? Wouldn't a stronger spring just exacerbate the bail-flop problem? My idea (but I'm no engineer) for a better design would be to have two springs, each pushing in a different direction, with the result being that the bail always wants to stand straight upright. Is that possible?

[fin]

Baka,

We have actually made a very cool modifcation to the way the new Lug Spring now sits inside the Sole Block. It still does the same job of keeping the bail (be it standard heel bail or SI front bail) from falling down on the board. However, its also creates tension being moved inward (or toward the Base Plate) on the TD2. So now you end up with a bail that wants to stand straight up.

Coupled with the 30% stronger spring it is very effective.

Yahoo, snowing right now at 6:50 am in Colorado as I write this!

[Ray]

WOW, the TD2 look very nice!
Can't wait to have mine put on my Swoard on Monday... ;)

[Mike T]

I'm thinking of buying a pair for my wife. She's about 130 pounds and this will be her first full year carving. She's really not interested in demoing, she simply wants the same setup every time out while she's learning... she found this to be m,ost helpful while learning soft-booting many years ago.

In any case she actually likes very stiff, very responsive soft-boot equipment. Her riding style on softies is very much about precision and finesse and never about muscling it. She packs a lot of power in her turns and makes it look easy. I sueopect her alpine style will wind up being very similar.

Which elastomers would you recommend I get? I'm thinking the medium ones... looking for a little bit of shock obsorbtion but still a solid interface. Or are the soft ones really not that soft and would I be better off getting those? Like I said she'll ride whatever I get for her until she's got enough experience to form her own opinions. Oh, btw she has SB 225 boots w/ a tongue from a 224 (to soften them a bit) and has a Coiler women's fc 165 on the way.

[C5 Golfer]

Fin or Bob J. -- do you have an exploded view of the TD2? It is pretty easy to do in Solidworks and do a simple Adobe Acrobat print for us to see how it all goes together. Thanks

[fin]

Mike,

Right on bringing moe women into the sport. Goodness nows we need them. I always find they take to it very quick and really do well.

For the TD2 I would say go with the Yellow (soft) E-rings for starters as they will give you a great amount of absorbtion (smoth ride) but still allow for good old hard-boot edge control. Then, later on, as she gets more aggressive on the deck she might want to try the mediums.


The point is I would start with Yellow as it will "ease" the issues with first starting on hardboots.

Hope this helps,

[cliffh]

Can the stiffer torsion return springs be retrofitted to the TD1's. If so - will you make them available? That's my biggest beef with the TD1's.

[fin]

C5 Golfer,

Yep, no problem. Here is a larger version of what is in the instructions. Gives you a view of both the Standard and the SI. They both use the same lower assembly.

You are correct, Bob and I have struggled with ways to show how the suspension system works and we are still working on concepts that we hope to add to the website soon.

We will also be adding a PDF version of the entire instructions to the website soon.

Take a look at this and let us know if you have any questions.

P.S. Bob uses SolidWorks and I use Inventor (as this was done in), so you can see why I beat him to the punch :p

[Jack Michaud]

They're cheap enough to try them all - $15 each. When you buy a full set of TD2s, you get one pair of e-rings included. Unlike the TD1 bumpers (which imo were "install and forget" items), the TD2 e-rings will have a profound effect on the ride and feel of the bindings. I imagine riders of all abilities will find uses for more than just one e-ring hardness.
-Jack

[Randy S.]

Fin,

What parts do I need to create a 2nd board kit so I can quickly swap TD2 step-ins from one board to another? I'm guessing Cant disk, elatomer and mounting disk. Is there a package price for such a kit?

[fin]

Good news: we have a "Second Board Kit" available for the TD2. However, we plan to add this item in the next few days so stay with us on that.

It will include: 2 E-rings (or your choice), 2 Cant disks (of your choice), 2 Center Disks (3 or 4 hole), and all the mounting hardware.

Coming soon...

[Ed Tostanoski]

fin, or anyone else who might have measured,
do you how the stiffnesses of the td2 elastomers compare to the rubber ring on cateks?
thanks

[Jack Michaud]

Originally posted by Ed Tostanoski
fin, or anyone else who might have measured,
do you how the stiffnesses of the td2 elastomers compare to the rubber ring on cateks?
thanks

I don't think it is meaningful to compare these features, because the Catek is not a floating system. The TD2 cant disc is not rigidly clamped to the board, rather it is merely held against the e-ring with a certain amount of preload. The soft and medium e-rings allow additional compression beyond that, so the cant disc has a little freedom to roll and pitch (but not yaw).
-Jack

[fin]

Ed, Jack is correct, frankly that is comparing two different parts that are used in two different ways. So it would not tell you much to try and compare the two parts.

Also, another large difference is that our E-ring is made from a special Eurathane made just for this function. The Catek ring (and I could be completely wrong, someone please correct me if I am) uses a rubber based material. These materials are simular in feel but worlds apart in function.

[deanj]

Relate to the TD2... Will you still have parts for the TD1? Second board kits, bumbers, etc???

Not that the TD2's aren't beautiful! :D

-D

[Steve Dold]

Hey Fin, it looks like there are cutouts or slots in the heel piece, is that for looking at the pins? If that's what it is, I like it a lot.

I don't suppose the heel pieces fit the older bindings, do they?

Solid!

Link

[1boardhead]

Hi Fin,

Great new website. As I read it, the TD2 will do angles steeper than the 60 limit of the TD1 all the way up to 90? Is that right?

Robert

[bschurman]

Originally posted by deanj
Relate to the TD2... Will you still have parts for the TD1? Second board kits, bumbers, etc???

Not that the TD2's aren't beautiful! :D

-D

It looks like that they are.

Click on <a href = "http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/parts_td1.cfm"> this link</a> for all the parts for the TD1

The is also an awesome section on the boot parts too.

->Ben

[cliffh]

What about my question Mr. Fin-man! Anyway - Can the stiffer torsion return springs be retrofitted to the TD1's. If so - will you make them available?

[fin]

Sorry cliffh, it has been so rapid fire here with questions I blew past yours. Sorry.

O-Fish-ely, the new stiffer spring will not work on TD1 bindings. This is mainly due to the fact that the spring wire stock is thicker and cause two issues with the TD1 Lugs:

1 - the hole in the lugs is too small for the new spring
2 - the new spring is also "wider" and will not fit in the Lug counter bore for the spring.

However, we are working on a couple of ideas on a work around for these issues so stay in touch with us and we'll keep you informed. To be honest if we did make a "kit" it would not be until December or later. We are just so slammed with finishing off productions.

[Mike]

So , can the TD2’s really open beer bottles?

~ or am I just gullible? :)


~ Mike

[fin]

Ha, you noticed that! :D

Yes, the TD2 does have a bottle opener built into it. However, this option is only found on the Standard model as it is located in the Toe Clip.

We are working very hard on making this an option for the SI, with hours and hours of testing so stay tuned :D

[Mike]

:eek:

i'm absolutely speechless !!!

that rox !

~ Mike

[Hans]

Originally posted by fin
Ha, you noticed that! :D

Yes, the TD2 does have a bottle opener built into it. However, this option is only found on the Standard model as it is located in the Toe Clip.

We are working very hard on making this an option for the SI, with hours and hours of testing so stay tuned :D

Okay, Fin

That's fun to have a beer opener on my stepinbindings, is it worthwhile waiting for this, because I have to import the bindings to the Netherlands. And I only import this once, because of the expensive taxes I have to pay over the amount (something about 23%).
Will this modification be ready before Christmas 2003?

Cheers, Hans

(Oh, you and Bob and others did a really good job so far, wish you all luck and good business with your new product)

[RCrobar]

Hi Bob-Fin

How about a little suspension 101 for the non-engineers in the Carving Community.

1. How was the thickness of the E-Ring determined?

-To the layman it seems that a thicker E-Ring base would equal even more suspension/shock absorption.

2. Does the amount of pre-load/compression on the E-Ring, when mounting the binding, affect the urethanes ability to absorb vibrations?

-If it was possible (for the sake of an example) to put more or less pre-loaded compression on the E-Ring, would this have any affect on the bindings ability to absorb vibrations?

3. Are most of the vibrations soaked up via the thin urethane E-Ring base or via the 3 urethane ‘tabs?’

Thanks:)
Rob

[Mark.Andersen]

Fin / Bob / Jack:

Does the interface between the Cant Disk and the Center Disk create a wear point on the TD2s? It would would seem that there would be some small amount of movement between the two in relation to the other. Any concerns that over time this will wear down the mating and create lateral play in the interface?

Thanks!

Mark

[north east will]

i dont really understand how this works on the td2. i see a cant ring that i assume has some amount of angle cut into it so when you mount the binding it has some angle relitive to the board. however it seems like for a given angle cut into the cant disk you can only get certain combinations of cant and lift. as the disk is rotated you would vary the amount of cant and lift but you could not for example increase cant and lift at the same time. is this the case?

will

[Jeffrey Day]

Hey Bob & Fin!
Very nice bindings! I looked around in the Bomber Store, but I couldn't find a 2nd board kit! Am I looking in the wrong area or is it something that is still in the works? I may be getting two new boards this season and I may be buying a set of TD2 ( Bob has been pestering me hahaha ) so I may want a 2nd board kit.

Happy trails

Jeff

[Hans]

Originally posted by Jeffrey Day
Hey Bob & Fin!
Very nice bindings! I looked around in the Bomber Store, but I couldn't find a 2nd board kit! Am I looking in the wrong area or is it something that is still in the works? I may be getting two new boards this season and I may be buying a set of TD2 ( Bob has been pestering me hahaha ) so I may want a 2nd board kit.

Happy trails

Jeff

If you read this topic more carefully, your answere you can find on the first page of this topic (but people don't read nowadays).

Cheers, Hans.

[Jack Michaud]

Actually, the TD2's cant adjustment is nearly independent of lift for smallish changes in cant disc angle. If you set up your bindings for pure lift (cant disc angle = binding angle), each 5 degree rotation of the cant disc produces an insignificant change in lift, and a useful change in cant.

Consider the 3 degree cant disc.
At 60/60 (binding angle/cant disc angle), you have 3 degrees of lift and no cant.
At 60/65 you have 0.262 degrees of cant and 2.989 degrees of lift.
At 60/70 you have 0.521 degrees of cant and 2.954 degrees of lift.

So, changing from 60/60 to 60/70, half a degree of cant is significant and noticeable. 0.046 of a degree change in lift is insignificant.

The 6 degree disc produces bigger changes with each notch of the cant disc, but the results are still nearly independant.

Mathophobes stop reading now.

For the TD2, your cant and lift degrees can be calculated as such:

Cant = A * SIN(B - C)
Lift = A * COS(B - C)

where
A = slope of disc (0, 3, 6)
B = disc angle relative to board (90 degrees = nose)
C = binding angle relative to board.

The forthcoming matrix has the results of these equations for a range of settings.

Of course, you don't have to figure all this out when you're making adjustments. You'll be able to read the disc angle and binding angle off the binding, and realize that if you set the disc angle and binding angle the same, you'll have pure lift. Each notch on the cant disc is 5 degrees of rotation, so you'll know that you'll be getting a little bit more cant with each notch you move away from the pure lift setting. All you need to do is keep track of how many notches away from pure lift or pure cant you are.

If anyone wants the excel spreadsheet I worked out for this, email me.
-Jack

[north east will]

ok thats what i thought...thanks for the responce

will

[Bordy]

Thinking some of you designers may have this thread Marked for E-mail I posted Anew thread Called TD2 SI 25.5 Boot issues Could you help me out please I would like to Fix ASAP!

[Randy S.]

Is there going to be a lifter kit for the TD2 SI?

Also, where is that matrix that Jack promised outlining the various cant/lift equations?

I got my new TD2s and I'm had fun mounting them. Now I just need to get to the hill to play with them. I had to run pretty steep angles to avoid toe/heel drag, compared with my old bindings. A lifter might make a difference. Perhaps there's a thicker set of cant plates?

[Jack Michaud]

Originally posted by Randy S.
Also, where is that matrix that Jack promised outlining the various cant/lift equations?

Ask and ye shall receive:

TD2 Matrix (http://www.bomberonline.com/JackM/td2matrix.xls)

-Jack

[moxie]

My new Donek came with plastic spacers for use with bomber bindings. These spacers sit below the e-ring of the TD2. Should I use these spacers and will it affect the performance of the e-ring or the stiffness of the binding?

[RaceCarver]

Still don't see one in the bindings area at the Bomber Store.

I have a few more boards that are just screaming at me to get mounted with the TD2!!!

Any info when it will be available??

[fin]

RaceCarver,

Sorry about that, we where just about to add the 2nd Board Kit to the site when sales went nuts (good news!) and we sold out of the parts that make the 2nd Board Kit (bad news). The plan is to have the second batch of the Kits ready to go the first week of January. You will then see the kit on the Bomber Store sometime before then so you can place your order.

Thanks for your patience on this and we are sorry for the delay,

[yexotay]

I am still waiting.

[bhheintz]

Does it still look like the first week of January for orders to be filled?

[fin]

bhheintz,

Yes, we are still holding strong to have the second wave of TD2 ready to go the first week of January. It may be the Standards first then the SI, but they would not be to far behind.

Thanks for everyones patience!

[Caleb V]

Would it be best to order now and wait for them to arrive or just put in the order the first week of January?
Are you establishing a waiting list and then taking payments as they ship out or will there be enough parts to go around for complete setups?
Thanks for the help,
Caleb

New to Hardbooting this year and I can't wait to try it out this season.

[fin]

Caleb V,

I would suggest placing your order now as it will put you in line to ship out the second they are ready to go.

Only when we ship do we charge your card.

Excellent to hear you are trying hardboots! Make sure to cruise the website as it is packed with information to help you out. The "Welcome Center" by Jack Michaud is a great way to get familiar with all the techno-bable that goes on here.

Let us know if there is anything else we can do to help,

[forrest]

Hey

I just got a pair of TD2's the other day and they look great I can't wait to get to the mountian. I did have a question about what metals you used in the bindings? The cant disk looks aluminum, the bail assembly Stainless but the plates I'm not really sure of, they are very blue. Ti? Stainless with cobalt?

great bindings
walker

[fin]

Forrest,

The Base Plate material is a special blend of Moon Rock and Giga-doodle-anium. Hard to machine, but worth it! :D

Actually, the Base Plate is 7075 Aluminum that we machine in-house to get the weight down to a minimum but still be strong. The really "cool" Pewter finish is done out of state at an anodizer than specializes in very rich and bright anodizing. Then laser engraved and back to us.

Glad to you like the TD2!

[Randy S.]

I have TD2 Step-ins with about 6 days on them. This weekend I noticed my forward toe starting to lift a bit. What's the best way to adjust the binding to reduce this play? Heel or Toe piece? Or is there some way to tighten down the bail that I haven't noticed? I tried moving the toe back a bit but still seemed to have play (I could lift my toe), despite a pretty tight fit fore-aft. Is there something I'm not doing properly in my setup. I have UPS boots.

[~tb]

Is it safe to assume that the center disk on the TD2 is made out of metal? I tried to find a description on the site, but failed to do so, but then again, I didnt spend TOO much time reading.

[Jack Michaud]

Yep, aluminum. The only non metal part of the binding is the e-ring.

[forrest]

I was wondering if it is possible to convert a standard binding to a step in? I am thinking of possibly getting a set of snowboard step in boots for days that I dont want to ski as well as board.

Is it possible to get the step in components, maybe just one set for my rear foot to save money? Would there be any issue with having a standard front foot and a step in rear?

[Ed Tostanoski]

it should be possible, assuming fin eventually gets spare parts in (too many of us want the whole binding!) having just the rear foot as a step-in is a great compromise, lots of us did it with the td1s when the stepins came out.

[~tb]

Forest.

I have ridden both the step-ins and standards in both the TD1's and the Catek Olympic Series. The one piece of advice that I would personally give is that if you are going to use one in back, you should use one in the front as well. Believe it or not, the step in interface is STIFFER than the standard interface. I dont know if I am the only one, but from a riding standpoint, I would actually preffer the STIFFER binding infront. sense this negates the advantage, I would reccomend using step ins, front and back whenever possible. You may save a little money, but you also loose a chunk of performance.

just my 2 cents!

[RaceCarver]

It the first of the year, and still no second board kits, or for that matter bindings:( It's getting a little old having to remove 14 bolts every time I want to use a different board:mad: Unless someone talks me out of it, I might just have to order a new Catek Olympic w/second board kits!!:eek:

[bschurman]

There is a second board kit avaliable. I asked Michelle about it but I just didn't pull the trigger. I think it was $98 but I'm not too sure about that. Just send an email to Michelle and ask about it. When the new bindings are avaliable I think they will have the kits.

->Ben

[RaceCarver]

My last post was out of frustration. I know that Fin is trying to get new bindings and second board kit ASAP. Its just that the TD2 works so well for my racing I want them on all my boards!!

[fin]

RaceCarver,

No worries, understand your need for the TD2 2nd Board kit. We never thought the first batch woudl go so quick! However, we are very much on track with the second wave of TD2 and should be ready to go in less then two weeks. keep an eye on the site for this. And will also announce here on the forum.

Till then,

[Mark.Andersen]

Hey Fin, just finished drooling over the new TI version of the Bishop. Any plans for TI hardware options on the TD2s? It looks like the bails could be the same shape...

Mark

[fin]

Mark,

Hmmm, Ti for the TD2....Hmmmmmm...who have you been talking to? What do you know? :D

Yea, good idea........you never know.

[johnstewart]

Any plans to get more 3-hole disks made sometime in the not too distant future? Is there no way to mount on a Burton board with the 4-hole disks (i.e. rotating the disk somehow)?

Lusting for a set... don't trust my current bindings...

[fin]

John,

Yea, we blasted through our stock of 3 Hole disks real fast this year. I am sure Burton handing out 98' carving decks for pennies on the dollar had something to do with it :rolleyes:

We will be making more 3 Hole disks but I will be honest, they will not be ready before the season is over. It takes up to 6 weeks for the entire process and that would be deep in the heart of Spring so there just is not enough time. Sorry.

I would recommend NOT modifying a 4 hole to work with a 3 hole. Very dangeous operation and might cause issues you do not want to deal with.

Sorry again for this situation guys, every year we get surprised as to tthe amount of sales we see for carving gear. Good news over all.

[C5 Golfer]

I just recv'd my TD2 Step-ins and I find the leash clip that I have on my boot for my TD1's is not interchangeable.. Is there a reason why you changed? The bitch of it was I did not find this out till I got on the slopes and had no leash to my board since I had th older clip on my boot and the other half was the new leash supplied to the binding. You should probably warn people of this in the instructions.

Sorry if this is a double post.. I tried search and found nothing.
AL

[fin]

Golfer,

Sorry about that with the leash. We changed the supplier for the leashes this year and they used a different "clip" for the leash then previous ones.

It is hard to identify which leash goes with what so the safest thing to do is always just use both parts from the most recent leash and you should not have a problem.

Side tip: if you ever loose the small part end, breaks off, different boot etc, just take the long part, open the toe buckle on the boot, put the leash under the toe strap, re-clamp the buckle. Holds it in place and works to keep the board on you just in case.

[Wayne]

I see that there is no current stock of TD1 heel receivers. So, what's the difference between the TD2 and TD1 that does not make them interchangeable? I can probably machine and make the TD2 fit. Give me some feedback.

[C5 Golfer]

Originally posted by Wayne
I see that there is no current stock of TD1 heel receivers. So, what's the difference between the TD2 and TD1 that does not make them interchangeable? I can probably machine and make the TD2 fit. Give me some feedback.

Good idea .. I have a set of TD1s I can't use till next year because they are out of heel peices. Wayne, let me know if you are successfull in modifying a TD2 or hopefully Fin can tell us what exactly can be done to re-work a TD2.

[Randy S.]

I saw that the Bishop bindings have a built-in holder for the 5mm hex wrench. Has anyone figured out a good way to attach a 5mm wrench to their board? It would be nice not to have to remember to put it in my pocket each morning (you never know which jacket you are going to wear). Needless to say, my mountain doesn't keep 5 mm wrenches on the tool racks they have all over the place.

Let me know if you have a great solution to this dilemna. Thanks.

[stickmansurf]

Fin

How long until you have 3 hole plates for TD-2's?

Stickman

[fin]

Check out my thread about 7 replies up from this one....

[Wayne]

Fin,
I looked up several and did not find what I need. I need a replacement heel receiver for the Bomber TD1 stepin. With other items made by different manufacturers, I am sure there are differences. If the TD1 and TD2 heel receiver has the same spread and bolt pattern for the Intec heel, then the only other differences are the base up to the pins and the hole pattern to bolt the receiver. If the bolt pattern is different, then I may be able to add additional holes to mount the TD2 receiver on a TD1 plate. That's what I was first asking.

[fin]

Wayne,

Ooops, sorry about that, blew by your question and forgot to answer. In therory you could modify a TD2 receiver to work on a TD1 but the heights would be a bit off (not by much mind you). Also, you would need to make sure you create a 45 degree chamfer in the part with a 4mm spacing (center to center) and 50mm from side to side.

Or you could contact Michelle at michelle@bomberonline.com or call at 800-277-2037 and order a TD1 heel receiver as we do have a few in stock and it is just not on the site right now.

[Wayne]

Good, that works for me, I can do either. Thanks for the response.

[C5 Golfer]

Originally posted by fin
Wayne,


Or you could contact Michelle at michelle@bomberonline.com or call at 800-277-2037 and order a TD1 heel receiver as we do have a few in stock and it is just not on the site right now.

Fin... did you get more in ?? I tried to order some justt recently and Michelle said no more till next year? Whats up?? I could really use 1 or 2 heel peices for a TD 1 step in.

[fin]

Just sent you an e-mail.

Fin

[Powpig]

I was measuring how much lift was in my TD2's and noticed that there was about 42mm of lift ,(measured in the middle of the boot),on the front binding, which has a 6* cant disk and only about 35mm of lift on the rear binding with a 3*cant disk. I would'nt think you can feel this, but would be intererested in comments. Also could the 0* disk be mounted on top of a 3* or6* disk for an additional 13mm of lift? BTW, I love myTD2's :)

[fin]

Yes, there are some small "center" height differences on each of the 3 different cant disks. However, you do need to remember that your foot is not attached to your leg in the middle of the foot so the height of say your heels is a better indicator of where you end up. But no matter how you slice it as long as you have cant/lift, your heights will vary a small amount and cetainly not enough to make the set-up feel bad.

No, the cant disks cannot be stacked on top of each other. If you want to create more lift, the best way is to lift the Sole Blocks on top of the Base plates. Keeps everything nice and clean and lined up properly as well.

[Steve Dold]

Fin, or Bob,

Is the heel receiver of the original TD step-in made of the same material as in the TD2? I'm wondering about machining a viewing slot into them similar to the TD2.

I love that feature. Whoever thought of that is a genius.

[Jack1080]

The screws on My TD2'S keep coming loose, just wondering if it is ok to use "loctite" or something like it to hold them in place. Will this damage anything on the bindings or on the board?

Jack

[Steve Dold]

The only thing that ever really solved the problem for me was using screws that threaded in more than three or four turns. If they tightened fully about a turn before bottoming out, they never loosened.

About a month ago I bought a new set of TD-2's and a new board. I tried the grease method after seeing messages here (Slick Honey in fact), and about every other time out the disc-to-board screws loosened. Last night I finally took them off and cleaned away the grease.

I can see merit in greasing just the heads though.

[Steve Dold]

Does Bomber have longer screws available to mount the disks of the TD2? I'm trying to get ahold of the next length up.

[bschurman]

I too would be interested in some 18mm screws for the base plate. I bought some with a 4mm hex socket and I am scared to use them as I might strip the socket out.

[bschurman]

Bob, once again, thank you. You are always the consummate engineer and always very helpful. Based on our discussion on the phone a few weeks back I did purchase the Stainless Socket Head Flat Screw in the 18mm length that I needed but as you mention in your post it does have the 4mm socket. Which, as you also mentioned might strip under the torque required to properly attach the baseplate. I just thought I would put in my wish list to Fin now in case he might possibly be able to get some made over the summer

Dave, I thank you for your offer to bring some down next week with you. But I am currently using my old TD1 with the longer M6 cap screws that are a dime a dozen and it works great. The board in question is an older Coiler with the recessed inserts. All my newer ones don't have this problem and I can mount up my TD2 no problem. I would really like to drop the TD2s on this board and give that a try. (see below for shameless self promotion)

Also, don't ask about my left hand. I sometimes think that it moves as though it is unattached to my body.

[fin]

Hey guys, just to let you know we do sell the longer M6 screws for boards with deeper inserts. They have a total length of 18mm (stock screws are 16mm). But as noted they do have 4mm socket heads so you need to be carefull with them. Longer screws can be found at the Bomber Store HERE (http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/parts_td2_m6_bolt.cfm)

Bola: acually it is impossible to over compress the E-Ring under the Cant Disk. The Center Disk bottoms out on the board at a pre-designed point that keeps the E-Ring from being over compressed.

[Steve Dold]

The board with the current problem is a Volkl RT. The only screw that doesn't loosen is the 1/4-28 that is in there thanks to the tapped insert.

The difference with that screw (besides size) is the fit is more precise and it threads in about 6 turns or so. Maybe the thread pitch is less too.

Thanks for the info guys. Bob, I'll try the thread depth measurement method.

Before mounting the plates, I always count how many turns the screws go in til they hit bottom, then count as I tighten the plates on to make sure the number is less. It's not very scientific but at least I know I'm not tightening against the bottom of the insert.

[gdboytyler]

Any idea when you will have more 0 degree cant disks available?

[D-Sub]

Ive never had a modern race board, or these TD bindings, but...Ive always used plumbers tape on all my insert screws. just a couple wraps and my screws stay tight way longer than any of my friends boards ever have.

I cant see how this would hurt anything, and it definitely seems to help. but again, with no experience with these particular bindings, it might not even be an option.

thoughts on this?

[D-Sub]

does grease keep screws from loosening too?

[D-Sub]

OK..one more question

ready to take the plunge with the TD2 step-in

questions:

6'2" around 200 pounds. Id say Im a fairly aggressive rider.

Since there are no 0* cants left...I guess its 3* front and back? Thats more cant than Ive ever used but I guess that means I can go a little wider on the stance? thinkin about 19 to 19.5"

and...the elastomer ring...soft, or medium? Im wondering if since Im used to burton plates with plastic bases, maybe I should go soft? But...with my weight...should I go minimum of medium?

I see that zero degree plates will be available in april...but...Id rather not wait...maybe a discount for a second/replacement set?

anyway, any help would be appreciated

[Jack Michaud]

I think everyone should be on 3/3! I think you'll love it. I'm 5'11" 170 and I'm using 3/3 and medium e-rings, 19.25" stance. With 3/3 you'll probably be able to go wider, like 19.5 or 20". I think you'd probably enjoy the mediums at your weight, but coming from flexy Burton bindings, you might want to start on the softs. They're cheap enough to experiment with anyway.
-Jack

[fin]

D-Sub,

FYI: still on track to have more 0 degree discs in April. However, we will have a few "demoed" 0 degree discs from the SES and ECES. Great shape just a bit used.

Call Michelle at 800-277-2037 and we can work this out with you if needed.

As a side note, just as Jack said, I would also recommend the 3/3 set-up and medium E-Rings for you. Double lift/cant like the 3/3 set-up has some great benifits and with the new adjustable lift angle you can experiment with various configurations.

You are more then welcome to call the above number or e-mail us direct bomber@bomberonline.com and we'll chat with you more on this.

[D-Sub]

man...how many other companies can you get immediate responses from the head designers?

thanks MUCH guys! Will call today

[Mike T]

Originally posted by Bob Jenney
I prefer to have as much suspension in the system as I can. At 195lbs, I run the soft. This provides a bit more edge contact as the terra gets firmer.

I'm riding the soft based on this advice and loving it, also at about 195 pounds. I bought the medium too, haven't tried them yet, maybe I will try them after my ankle heals.

[D-Sub]

thanks again, guys

[MozzMann]

Hi once again fellas after I haven't been on the forum so long .
Away working

New season just about to open here in Oz BUT I finally got my TD2's Yummy . But I couldn't get 3 hole disks so I thought of using a block of alloy in the lightening recess to spread the load and drilling the required hole (to suit my Burton Race 85). Any ideas as to wether this will weaken the 4 hole disk by doing so.

Also have Guy's n' Gals the Oz Carve Web site should be a goer for the 2004 Oz season, Mainly with Trail maps to indicate the best runs for the carver. I'll be marking some other's in suited to those who like to use hardboots on free ride Boards. Cheers all.

Mozz

[fin]

MozzMann,

Not totally sure what you are trying to do but I am guessing you want to convert a 4 hole disk to 3 hole?

Well, being the guy who makes them I would have to say that we do NOT recommend this type of modification. The Center Disk is a key part in holding the entire binding together and we spent a good amount of time making sure there where no "thin" spots on disk that could cause failures.

The probelm is you do not have much room above the disk as the clearance between it and the bottom of the Base Plate is almost zero. So you have no choice but to cut into the current disk material and this would be bad as far as strength goes.

We will be making a stack more 3 hole disks for next season so if you can wait I would go that route.