Please be patient with the newb

[guesswho]

I am looking to buy my first alpine board, after my first season on a freeride board. You might say Im jumping the gun, but I love diving into things head first, and it always seems to work for me. I'd like to think that I learn pretty quickly. I learned to carve on my freeride board on maybe my 5th trip to the local mountain, using only what I have read on this forum and alpinecarving.com. Im not saying Im really good at it, but I can definitely lay down a trench.

I am currently on a soft boot/binding setup with a 158 burton elite (eff edge. 121cm, waist 25cm) freeride board. As to be expected, the board wobbles and flexes like crazy during a carve, and I know thats just not right. I am about 5'7-8 and weigh about 155-160 lbs. I longboard frequently in the summer, and feel comfortable hitting intermediate snowboard trails in the winter. Again, I've only been on the slopes like 8 times or so, it was a short season from what I hear.

Judging from the characteristics of the different types of boards at alpinecarving.com, Ive decided to go with a freecarve board, and am currently in love with the F2 Silberpfeil :) I've heard this board is rumored to have a bit of a steep learning curve, but I feel confident enough in my abilities, that I think I can tackle it. (I hope im not coming off as over-confident). I was thinking of getting the board new (or used if I can find it), some cheap used bindings, and some mid-level boots (high end if I can get them on sale).

So, my question is, am I completely mental? What length should I get? I was thinking a 162. If this isnt the board for me, any suggestions?

P.S. I live in NYC so, unfortunately, demo'ing a setup and trying stuff on, isnt really an option for me.

[tex1230]

where do you ride? If, like alot of new yorkers, you head for stratton, the startingate will hook you up with demo boots and boards. good people there.

at your height and weight, you will probably get bored with a 162 silber quickly. they are very turny. IMHO you would do better on a donek axis 167 or 172...(or 4wd, or atv, etc...)

i would also suggest looking for a used board now. this is the time of year when deals can be found, and you can get into a decent setup for a couple of hundred dollars nw, then try it out when the snow flies again, and if you like it you can easily upgrade (cared for properly, used equipment really holds its value)

[bobdea]

I'm not a big fan of the silb, if you want a shape similar but superior I'd go with a Madd 170 but there are better options than both
that said, the most friendly boards that I've been on that also perform really well for hard carving is the coiler AM, if I had to choose just one board that's what it would be for sure.
If you can afford it go with the metal option if you do get a coiler.

speaking of metal, probably the best freecarver out there is the prior WCR metal it's just not as versitile as the Coiler AM.

[bobdea]

Burton Elite? you mean one of these? http://www.dvssnow.com/museum/boards/burton_elite140_blue_top.jpg :D

[Dr D]

Shred is bored again:lol: I learned on an elite 140 in 1980 something its a brutal straight edged bastard:freak3: Carving it??? turning it is unlikely.

[fin]

Guesswho,

Welcome! If you have not already read it check out:

http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/welcome_center.cfm (http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/welcome_center.cfm)

This is our Welcome Center, a collection or articles and information to help someone like you get into the sport.

That said a couple, of things to think about. If you have a limited budget and are thinking of getting some of the gear used then my rule is to get the boots new and the rest used. The boots are the critical link to you and the hardware. A good boot has a great life-span and should last you over 5 years, no problem. Boots I would recommend would be on the softer side like the Deeluxe Track 225 or the Suzuka. Lots of adjustments and they come with the moldable Thermo-Flex liners which are like having little hot-tubs on your feet, comfy and warm!

Going with a Freecarve board for a first is a great idea. Also don't forget to look at what we call "All Mountain" carve boards like the Donek Axxess and the Prior 4WD and ATV. They tend to be a bit softer and wider and are great for the first timer and then they become an invaluable part of your quiver (oh, and you WILL build a quiver). The F2 Silberpfeil is a fantastic board for the first timer and we sell quite a few of these just for that reason. We use them quite a bit in our demo fleet as well for these same reasons. The best part is this board is NOT something you will out-grow, it is a performance board but with a shape and flex that is not crazy aggressive.

As far as length (very debatable) I would suggest around the high 160's. At your height and weight you will have no issues and this size is more "universal" for various conditions and types of turns. Don't forget, you up-size the length from your freestyle board. I know that in the softboot world a high 160's is considered "huge" but in the hardboot world it is a medium length.

As far as checking all this gear out that is the tough one we are working on. The guys at Starting Gate are fantastic and your best option if you make it up that way. Ask for Shawn as he is very knowledgeable. More then welcome to call us as well and we can answer any other questions you have.

Good luck and get ready for the addiction :biggthump

[pebu]

(oh, and you WILL build a quiver)

:o

I snowboarded for 8 years on the same board. The winter that I started hardbooting I now retired that board and have 3 more to take its place. All used, but still, it's awesome having boards that are a little more specialized..

[BlueB]

Welcome!

I 2nd the high 160s idea. I would try to demo / borrow few different types, or buy something cheaper used, try, sell, buy something else, etc. Afeter a year or so, you would have an idea of what's THE board.
From the other hand, an all-mountain carver is indispensable part of any quiver, so if you went Axxess, 4WD, AM, you are likely to keep it. I can bet that you would still build from there and eventually have a rip-stick and pow-stick, too...

Boots... well, try few models if possible at all. The shell fit is very different from make to make (wide feet / narrow feet, etc.) Once you've established that, buy new, custom fit them, and keep untill they fell appart.

Don't go too cheap on bindings. TD2/OS2 for stiff feel, F2/Snowpro for softer feel. I ride the Snowpros on my AM/pow setups, and TD2s on my ripping setups.

Boris

[pebu]

Sorry, I meant to say welcome, but got caught up a bit...

Welcome...

[guesswho]

Sorry, I meant to say welcome, but got caught up a bit...

Welcome...

lol, Thanks. Man, you guys are awesome with replies.

Actually bobdea, heres a pic of the what I ride http://www.mamboo.ru/upload/burton07elite_m.jpg
Also, those boards you recommend sound like a good idea, but price is definitely a factor here (broke college student), I will keep an eye out for those boards in the classifieds though. Same for the Priors Tex mentioned.

Question: How bad are freecarve boards at handling bumps and end-of-a-crowded-day trails? I'd like to go with a freecarve, but the all-mountain seems a bit more reasonable. Is the Silberpfeil unusable on crud? Some of you guys seem to think its a not a great choice, but its a bit more affordable than others, even new. And I know graphics arent important at all, but its a SWEET looking stick, lol. I was a little concerned about out-growing it, so thats good to know, Fin.

I read that there should be atleast one softer link in the chain, be it either boots, bindings or board, because if theyre all stiff than it makes for a crappy ride. Where is the Silberpfeil in terms of stiffness, compared to other boards?

I see where you are coming from with the boots. Its the same thing in speed skating, proper boots come first, then everything else afterwards.

High 160's it is! I was just a little concerned. You're right, my freeride 158 setup is considered fairly large, and isnt very flickable at low speeds.

I have checked out the welcome center before, its a great source of info. "carving the norm" is what helped me with my first carve more than anything.

I guess I'll plan a trip up to the starting gate at stratton. Its like a 5 hour drive, so I may try to make a weekend of it this winter.

Man, it is way to early in the summer for me to want to ride THIS bad. How do you guys do it? My longboard just isnt enough! I keep looking for a lift when I get to the bottom of a hill, just to remember that I have to push MYSELF back up to the top. That is unacceptable.

[philw]

Question: How bad are freecarve boards at handling bumps and end-of-a-crowded-day trails? [...] Is the Silberpfeil unusable on crud?
I've never riden one, but I have a 162 F2 SL board (I weight 62kgs) which I suppose is a bit more "race" oriented than that, and it's easy to ride in crud, so I doubt you'd have a problem.

Crud is easy on an alpine board: the mushier it is the easier it is. Just ignore it. Or seek it out - you can do slashy stuff in it and if the rest of the piste is scraped clean then that's where the easiest turns are. If you mean broken-up off-piste stuff, "mashed potatoes" and all... that's easy enough to ride on this type of board too, although it's another technique you'll have to learn.

Bumps are a bit different - the SL board I have needs to be ridden hard to work, so you need to be fit or have spot-on technique to rattle through bumps with any style & speed. The Silver thing should be more compromising I'd say.

As you already have a flopsy setup, if you found you weren't able to hack all conditions on the F2 then you always have a fall back.

[BlueB]

Good decision on high 160s. Longer board gives you more edge and bigger sweet spot. You don't wont to flick it too often - you'll be carving it.
IMHO, AM board is just a fatter freecarver, with added versatility of more nose and tail. My 4WD 174 was my most ridden board last season. When in doubt, I take that one, also, I often teach on it.
Other (cheaper) AM or AMish options are Burton Speed Wide (love it!), Burton Alp, Rad-Air Hornet (SL board disguised in AMish shape), Burton Coil, F2 CrosX...
I didn't ride the Silber, but there' certainly enough good reviws about it. Closest thing I rode was an old (narrower) Renntiger. Sure thing, it was quick edge to edge and had decent edge hold, but I didn't like small nose and narrowness when not on hard pack.
Another board that performed well for me as freecarver and some AM is Generics IQ, due to almost 20 waist and decent nose. A bit on stiff side, though, and not likely that you'll find one.

[guesswho]

Thanks for the advice. I think I might actually use Bomber's Spring sale for the board and bindings and save some money for next season.

I dont think I'll have a hard time finding good bindings, but I dont know about the boots. I am a size 27, and its not available in any of the boots. I guess I'll have no choice except to go to the starting gate and get them in person, which is probably better because I get to try them on. Would I be correct in assuming that 27 is a popular size and will sell out quickly? Can I expect them to be more expensive at the store than on the website, or is the pricing pretty standard?

And I know there probably isnt a simple answer to this, but should I, as a first time hardbooter, be looking into getting step-in or standard bindings, and why?

[BlueB]

If buying Raichle/Deeluxe, go at least 1/2 size lower than your street shoe. Probably a full size. They run their sizing too big. If you have wider feet go Head.

I would go with standard bails - more flexible and gives you the opportunity to ride intec non-comptible boots. Like ski boots, for instance (I'll get flamed for this ;) :D )

[bobdea]

there's a metal wcr 177, quite honestly if people try to say anything else is a better freecarver they're either on crack, a kessler or a metal coiler, one of the three at least

the boots, they are more expensive usually in the store but you more than make that money back at a place like the starting gate because they will usually get you in the perfect "race" fit for way less than if you walked in with boots that were from another shop

[zoltan]

How do you know you're a size 27?

I rode a F2 SP this year and had a really good time on it. It's my first proper alpine board. It was ridden in the mid-atlantic a lot, and while the snow was just cruddy and not bumpy it handled it fine. It rides very damp and I could barely feel the crud. It was cool because my friends kept commenting on how quiet I was while the board was flexing around like crazy under me. Neat. When things got properly bumpy, though, the SP went away and I switched over to soft boots. It's a really good tool for me, but it's not an all around ride. I think it held a good edge and rewarded me when I used proper technique and didn't punish me too badly when I didn't!
I weight about 160 with gear and have wear LeMans boots (Track 225 now) with softer bindings; SnowPro Race at first, then F2 Race Titaniums. I much prefer the F2 bindings over the SnowPros. I was comfortable on crud with this setup, though everything became too stiff when I locked my rear boot. Depending on your weight, you mileage may vary.

[Michelle]

Would I be correct in assuming that 27 is a popular size and will sell out quickly? Can I expect them to be more expensive at the store than on the website, or is the pricing pretty standard?

And I know there probably isnt a simple answer to this, but should I, as a first time hardbooter, be looking into getting step-in or standard bindings, and why?

Welcome Guesswho!

Yes, you are correct. 27 is the most popular men's size. I know, I sell them all the time and it is usually one of the first sizes we run out of. This time of year it's hard to find anything except really big or really small. We will have more boots in November. Pricing is pretty standard across the board whether online or in store - we like to keep things nice in this small community :biggthump

As for step in or standard - it's all about personal preference. The only difference is convienence. Step in's in hard boots are nothing like step in's in softies. I won't ride step in's in softies - they are a real pain in the you-know-what. But I won't ride anything except step in's on my hard boots. And for all you guys that say step in's are too stiff - I'm a girl. :p

But honestly, it's all about what you like and what WORKS for you. So take everyone's advice because it's great stuff, and then make your own decisions. Let me know if you have any questions.

[Michelle]

Sorry, I forgot the most important thing!


As for sizing for your boots, go here (http://www.bomberonline.com/store/boots/Sizing_boots.pdf)and follow these instructions. If you follow them correctly, I can usually fit someone via email about 99% of the time. DO NOT CONVERT YOUR STREET SHOE SIZE! Bad move,and you will probably have boots that end up not fitting.

[Mellow Yellow]

Sorry, I forgot the most important thing!


As for sizing for your boots, go here (http://www.bomberonline.com/store/boots/Sizing_boots.pdf)and follow these instructions. If you follow them correctly, I can usually fit someone via email about 99% of the time. DO NOT CONVERT YOUR STREET SHOE SIZE! Bad move,and you will probably have boots that end up not fitting.

ooohhhhhhh - is that why my feet have hurt for years....

[tex1230]

check the classifieds - there's a 167 axxess for sale in there.

[pebu]

I don't think I've said it yet, but I measured my feet, one at 27 and the other at a little over 27.5. I ended up getting some used raichle 124s (with rabs on them) with some thermoflex liners. I'm glad I went with the 26 instead of trying to find some 27s. I think I hit the end of the liner (barely, not noticable when riding) but I take the liner out and do the test and my feet just about swim in there.
If in doubt, err on the side of tight.

[BlueB]

there's a metal wcr 177, quite honestly if people try to say anything else is a better freecarver they're either on crack, a kessler or a metal coiler, one of the three at least
How exactely the Kessler makes for a good freecarver? I admit that I didnt ride one, but I rode next to Fast Freddy and inspected his board. In his own words "it's a hard board to ride".
The thing has disfunctional nose design (for enithing but icy ruted race course). Stupendous amount of taper probably doesn't make "hooking up" nor finishing the turns all that easy. Then progressive sc, from 24+ to 18m, is not exactely a freecarving radius either...

Boris

[bobdea]

depends on what you want from it, I considered huge race sticks like 200ish great freecarvers when I had the room.
I've been on a older kessler but it was so brief that I can't really say that it was a great ride with authority but it was not like it was a "serious" board like the friggin' planks that the burton team used to get or some of the older priors and doneks that some people ride here.
hangl plates make the boards a bit more intense to ride though
also, there's allot of diversity with the kesslers from what people who've bought them tell me, a bunch of different shapes and like Donek, Prior and Coiler they will do anything you want for a price.

[Mike T]

there's a metal wcr 177, quite honestly if people try to say anything else is a better freecarver they're either on crack, a kessler or a metal coiler, one of the three at least

As a recently converted metal "crackhead" - LOL!

I've got both a Prior 177 stiffened to my weight and a Coiler AM-T 172 / 12m. The Prior is the winner on ice (e.g. spring freeze/thaw, 1st thing in the AM) but if I could only keep one deck it would without question be the Coiler.

[bobdea]

see! my point exactly.

I guess the way I think about it is this, metal is the **** and all the boards that I've been on that have it are sooooo much easier to ride AND at the same time perform better when you really get on it there is no reason to waste your time with anything else and they are worth the extra money because they eliminate some of the need to have multiple boards because they rip grrom great but are so much easier to ride in the chop I don't feel like switching to something softer late in the day like I do with the older stiff board without the stuff.
metal=more runs before you get tired and better performance
thats priceless or actually it does have a price, about $200 more than a F2

[bobdea]

and FYI, I was one of the naysayers before I had one, but the product speaks volumes when you ride it.
period.

[BlueB]

I'm not saying metal's bad, contrary, I'll probably get one. But, Priors have nice nose, scr in line with freecarving norms, reasonble taper.
Kessler that I loked at didn't meet that criteria...

[Jack Michaud]

My Prior Metal 177 does not yet have the same tune as my Madd 158 and 180 (PTC), so the jury is still out as to which has ultimate grip on ice. But the way people are extolling metal here, you would think that metal boards are so much better that the tune wouldn't matter as long as they were both sharp. But I digress...

It is a matter of feel and preference. Generally, metal boards are going to be more damp. Non-metal boards are going to be more lively. Which do you prefer? For freecarving on smooth conditions, I'll take a lively board every time - they're more exciting. On rough conditions, damp boards are more comfortable, versatile, and easier to ride.

That said, my Prior strikes a nice balance between lively and damp. It's a great do-it-all board. It's my VFR. However my Madds are my 748 and 998, respectively. :eplus2:

[zoltan]

It's my VFR. However my Madds are my 748 and 998, respectively. :eplus2:

Nice. :biggthump

[guesswho]

How do you know you're a size 27?



Well, Im coming from inline speed skating, another sport where precise boot fit is absolutely essential. There, boots also use the mondo point scale, and a 27 fits me like a very snug glove. We actually use the same exact method to measure boot size as Michelle mentioned.

As for the metal boards, I would love to get one, but right now my choice is either get a mid-level board or continue trying to carve in my super softie freeride setup, and that just wont do.

I actually do have wide feet, so maybe I will look into head boots. But I have heard some that people have had major issues with head warranties. Any comment on that?

I think Im gonna have to think about the bindings a little bit longer, because the standard ones may be more compatible, but I am really only going to have one setup for a while. Plus, Im all about the convenience, lol.

[Michelle]

As for the metal boards, I would love to get one, but right now my choice is either get a mid-level board or continue trying to carve in my super softie freeride setup, and that just wont do. .Keep in mind that boards aren't (in my opinion) considered "advanced" or "beginner" - they are just designed to perform differently depending on what you want the board to do. One might be softer, more damp, or on the stiffer side but if you are a beginner and that is what you are looking for (maybe you are over 200/under 150 lbs or are very aggressive, or just like stiffer/softer equipment) than you have to choose the board that is going to perform as you want it to.


I actually do have wide feet, so maybe I will look into head boots. But I have heard some that people have had major issues with head warranties. Any comment on that?.
HEAD boots have not been proven to be any wider than the Deeluxe boots, although some people on this forum will say they think they are. I have been told they have the same inside volume. They are NOT considered a "wide" boot. With that said, I have had excellent results from my HEAD contacts whenever there is a warranty problem, which is not often. Perhaps these people are buying them from an unreliable source? Buying from a reputable dealer will ensure they will (should) go to bat for you with the manufacturer and if they still can't get any results, they will usually cut you a deal for empathy.


I think Im gonna have to think about the bindings a little bit longer, because the standard ones may be more compatible, but I am really only going to have one setup for a while. Plus, Im all about the convenience, lol.More compatible with what? All of the boots on the market now that I know of (that are sold in the US) are compatible with Step In, unless you are using ski boots and we all know how I feel about that. ;)

[pebu]

Keep in mind that boards aren't (in my opinion) considered "advanced" or "beginner" - they are just designed to perform differently depending on what you want the board to do. One might be softer, more damp, or on the stiffer side but if you are a beginner and that is what you are looking for (maybe you are over 200/under 150 lbs or are very aggressive, or just like stiffer/softer equipment) than you have to choose the board that is going to perform as you want it to.


What are traits that the typical beginner would feel comfortable with? I know I could throw out some terms and share my experiences, but they're only my experiences and what I've read. I thought it might be helpful to hear it from somebody who's seen alot of people through the beginning stage.
I think I'd be more comfortable in soft boots, a fairly stiff binding setup and a fairly soft, but lively board. But I havent' been able to experiment a whole lot with different setups.

[zoltan]

How much do you weigh and what conditions do you usually ride?

[Michelle]

What are traits that the typical beginner would feel comfortable with? I think I'd be more comfortable in soft boots, a fairly stiff binding setup and a fairly soft, but lively board. But I havent' been able to experiment a whole lot with different setups.Because of a lot of people saying this to me, I tend to start people out on all mountain boards, depending on their background. In other words, if they have a background in softies, or skating or surfing, I would start them out on something that is more familiar - wider board, less angles, softer flex, softer nose and tail for ease of transition into and out of turns. If they come from a skiing background, then either is ok. Usually skiers are used to standing forward with stiff boots, so they do ok starting on a carve specific board.

This is a HUGE generalization and is only my opinion. It also doesn't mean that all mountain boards are for beginners only, and carve specific boards are for more experienced people. It just means that I think people find it easier to learn on a board that is a bit wider and softer, where they don't have to be so aggressive on their first day. All mountain boards are fantastic for what they are designed to do - go all over the mountain.

I hope I'm not digging a hole here.

[Jack Michaud]

I'll second Michelle on the All-Mtn Carver as a first board for a newbie. I started my wife, sister, and father on square-tails, and they had some trouble. Transitioning to the round-tail AMC's opened the door for them.

[zoltan]

I personally don't like the lower angles of an all mountain board. My mechanics break down between 40 and 55 degrees where you're doing a hybrid of dropping your hip side to side and front to back. Things really fell into place once my angles got up into the high 50s.

[dirk109]

Hey Guys,
GuessWho, I will defiantly take care of you next year. My demo fleet is pretty rounded. We will be carrying only Donek & Coiler next year. We will have boards, boots and bombers for you to demo. I have some '06-'07 Nidecker and Oxygen stuff if that tickles your fancy. I am out of the shop until Columbus Day weekend. I am sure most of your questions can be answered here.


Sean
Startingate
Bondville, VT
802-297-1213

[Michelle]

I personally don't like the lower angles of an all mountain board. My mechanics break down between 40 and 55 degrees where you're doing a hybrid of dropping your hip side to side and front to back. Things really fell into place once my angles got up into the high 50s.Understood. But we are talking BEGINNER here. I even got lost with this post. Those are things that are not at all relevant to a newbie.

[Michelle]

Hey Guys,
GuessWho, I will defiantly take care of you next year. My demo fleet is pretty rounded. We will be carrying only Donek & Coiler next year. We will have boards, boots and bombers for you to demo. I have some '06-'07 Nidecker and Oxygen stuff if that tickles your fancy. I am out of the shop until Columbus Day weekend. I am sure most of your questions can be answered here.


Sean
Startingate
Bondville, VT
802-297-1213Cool Sean - hook him up! It's good to know that you guys have demos too. I'll pass the word along.

[pebu]

It's ok Michelle, that's what I was looking for. If anybody starts in on ya I'll back you up. (Not that my word carries much stock, but still...)

[Michelle]

Thanks Man!;)

[tex1230]

In Case anyone missed that:::


Hey Guys,
GuessWho, I will defiantly take care of you next year. My demo fleet is pretty rounded. We will be carrying only Donek & Coiler next year. We will have boards, boots and bombers for you to demo. I have some '06-'07 Nidecker and Oxygen stuff if that tickles your fancy. I am out of the shop until Columbus Day weekend. I am sure most of your questions can be answered here.


Sean
Startingate
Bondville, VT
802-297-1213


WOW!!!

[zoltan]

Understood. But we are talking BEGINNER here. I even got lost with this post. Those are things that are not at all relevant to a newbie.

But I'm still a newb as well!

I was fortunate to figure out those angles didn't work for me, otherwise I would probably be on a AM board and doing worse than I am now. Yeah, there's a good chance this doesn't apply to the OP, but it's still something to consider, especially given the price of boards.

[BlueB]

One can always ride with a bit of underhang, with personal comfortable angles, and still take the advantages of wider AM board.
I pretty much can not ride properly much below 40deg on the rear...

[Michelle]

Point taken. However,
I am looking to buy my first alpine board, after my first season on a freeride board.. He has never even been on a HB board, and only a softie a few times.

I think the lesson to learn is that everyone is different, and you just have to get out there and try something so that you can have a point of reference. That's why demos are so great.

Guesswho, if you can get up to Stratton and check out Sean's demos then you will have something to gauge yourself on. And Sean can help you out with other info, he knows his stuff.

But maybe we've scared him away already because the last 14 posts have been us blabbing away.....

Guesswho come back:biggthump As you can see, we're all pretty passionate about the sport and would love to help you out.

[guesswho]

Sorry, I got a little busy lately and forgot about the mess I started here, lol. You guys are awesome! I love that passion you guys have. Its amazingly similar to the kind you find on the inline speedskating boards. In certain aspects speedskating and hardbooting are pretty similar. I think recreational skating is to speedskating as freeride is to carving. Both are just much more focused forms of the original where precision of equipment and technique especially are paramount to success. Yes, I am a beginner, but I am not afraid to dive right in. I feel confident enough that I can pick it up even though the learning curve is a little steep. Hopefully, my experience with body positioning and extremely controlled weight transfers will serve me well here. Michelle, in addition to skating, I longboard as well, I dont know if this helps you understand my background. Also, I will try to find out what the current binding angles are on my freeride setup to give you guys an idea.

Zoltan, I am about 155 lbs and usually ride mountains like Hunter and Windham, much smaller than those big beautiful hills you guys have out west. So its basically hard pack/corduroy in the mornings with some chop towards the end of the day, depending on if its a popular trail or not. Wierdly enough, I feel the same way about the binding angles. Because my board has like a 250mm waist, I cant afford to go that high for fear of too much underhang and not enough leverage (I think im using the term correctly). But I do feel that I would be able to shift my weight and lean more correctly if my binding angles were higher, but again it could just be my inexperience talking.

Also, Im not really sure about how the demo process works. Can you sample multiple boards in one day? Is the Startingate located ON a mountain, or close to one? Is there a fee? Contract? Kidney exchange? Im afraid to think of what kind of deposit I would need to put down on an $800 board with $400 boots and $300 bindings. Plus, I will have to drive up from NYC for the day. Not sure I could afford to spend the night in a hotel.
*Thinks about it* Good lord, how much will I be spending Sean? Unless theres a major sale, I dont think I can handle the expenses. This isnt really a sport for the financially challenged, is it? lol.

[tex1230]

Sorry, I got a little busy lately and forgot about the mess I started here, lol. You guys are awesome! I love that passion you guys have. Its amazingly similar to the kind you find on the inline speedskating boards.
I knew it! Guesswho = Apollo Anton Ohno!!!



Also, Im not really sure about how the demo process works. Can you sample multiple boards in one day? Is the Startingate located ON a mountain, or close to one? Is there a fee? Contract? Kidney exchange? Im afraid to think of what kind of deposit I would need to put down on an $800 board with $400 boots and $300 bindings..
Not to speak for the gate, but as of last year, they charged $50 a day for demos, and if you buy something they would apply part or all of the demo fee to your purchase. They are at the bottom of the Stratton access road, about 2.5 miles from the base. I'm not sure if they allow switching off during the day, but it would be a bit of a hassle to drive down and switch boards mid-day. If you do, take a skinny board in the morning and an all mountain carver in the afternoon.


Plus, I will have to drive up from NYC for the day. Not sure I could afford to spend the night in a hotel.
*Thinks about it* Good lord, how much will I be spending Sean? Unless theres a major sale, I dont think I can handle the expenses. This isnt really a sport for the financially challenged, is it? lol.

you'll be selling extra relatives and unused organs soon. :biggthump

[Michelle]

Just contact Sean and he can give you the details.


Sean
Startingate
Bondville, VT
802-297-1213

[zoltan]

Zoltan, I am about 155 lbs and usually ride mountains like Hunter and Windham, much smaller than those big beautiful hills you guys have out west. So its basically hard pack/corduroy in the mornings with some chop towards the end of the day, depending on if its a popular trail or not. Wierdly enough, I feel the same way about the binding angles. Because my board has like a 250mm waist, I cant afford to go that high for fear of too much underhang and not enough leverage (I think im using the term correctly). But I do feel that I would be able to shift my weight and lean more correctly if my binding angles were higher, but again it could just be my inexperience talking.

I weigh about 155 myself and am a huge fan of my SF. I bought it brand new for $550 from hardbooter.com. For boots I use the LeMans which are about right for my weight and strength and generally not-hot conditions I ride in. I've added the BTS since I'm convinced that riding in powder or walk mode is not safe. You can pick them up used for not too much, though make sure they have a full heat moldable liner. Finally, I like my F2 bindings, though my old SnowPros were ok. They say they're softer bindings, I don't know since I haven't tried all metal ones, but they work really wel for me, and again, for the crappier conditions I ride. For the record I ride worse hills than you, mostly Whitetail in PA.