Splitboard bindings question

[Jim Callen]

I'm planning on getting a split for this winter. Question though: for those of you who ride them, how do you handle not having any cant or lift? I'm bigtime worried that it will bother my riding. Any juryrigging that's been done or the like?

[bobdea]

boards that are wideenough that you angles are low, no real need for canting when you're riding with 30* angles
if you go burton all the way around you could rock a cant and swap it out super fast, about a minute
of the splits I have been on the burton stuff rode the best by far anyway but I have not been on Prior's splits

[Mark.Andersen]

Hey Jim:

Cant/Lift can be improvised. Contact Zach Davis through the member's list. He has concocted custom cant/lift for his Bomber Splitboard bindings.

Mark

[Zach Davis]

Jim,

I had some cant shims custom milled... I placed them between the Voile pucks and the board. They worked ok, but I have better advice:

Get appraoch skis... especially if you use hard boots. Right now, I have Karhu Metas. I took off the clunky bindings that came with them and replaced them with Dynafit toe pieces and Voile heel risers.

I also peeled off the small skins on the bottoms of the skis and replaced them with a set of the new splitboard skins that Voile makes. I trimmed the skins to the edges of the skis, then T-nutted them in place at the tips.

Overall, this system is much more efficient for me than a splitboard. I have less weight on my feet when skinning, less crap to do at the top of a hill, and I get to ride my board of choice (Donek Incline 168) with my bomber bindings canted the way I want them.

The only problem that I've had with them is that I pulled one of the Dynafit toe pieces out on an icy traverse. I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet, but I will just t-nut the toe pieces to the skis... I have no need for a good base on the skis.

I'm also working on a collapsable approach ski, and the prototype should be ready for this winter.

Zach

[Jim Callen]

Well, I'm getting a custom split made, so it is exactly the board I want to ride. And it's got a 21cm waist, so it isn't wide either. Not quite sure what I'm going to do yet.

[Jon Dahl]

I've got a homemade cant shim under the rear pucks on my split-kit equiped board. It is a hassle to figure out, but necessary for riding comfort. Bobdea does have a point, though. I rode Voile's swallowtail at splitfest w/o any cant or heel lift and was fine at 35/30. UHDP plastic is the material needed. Go to www.splitboard.com and search for the subject "cant", there are a few threads with pictures that will get you started.

[carvedog]

Well, I'm getting a custom split made, so it is exactly the board I want to ride. And it's got a 21cm waist, so it isn't wide either. Not quite sure what I'm going to do yet.


So excuse stupid question. Why you make split board, what have only 21cm waist?

[Jon Dahl]

Other than deep powder, a narrow waist board will work in the backcountry. Hardpack, steeps, anyplace edge to edge transitions are at a premium. Weight under foot/on back could theoretically be less. I'm fairly certain I would not go that narrow, but for spring conditions I've been thinking of a board like a narrow boardercross or Axxess split, 160ish, would be ideal, as my other split is a 178 with around a 25 waist. I am curious as to how this will work for Jim, keep us posted!

[Jim Callen]

Essentially what I'm doing is getting a Prior ATV made with a flex similar to the WCR, a massive upturned nose, a 21 cm waist, and about 3 centimeters of taper. Length will be high 170's, a SCR in the 10-13m range. I love using my WCR anywhere, and I want to make it more powder friendly. We'll see how this works out.