TD1s question- how tight?

[ethanpt]

I switched to plates (TD1s) and am riding an 02 speed 168. I have riddent 7 times this year and I have a question about these bindings. My boot is a size 11 Raichle. Just how tight should the binding be? I swear that as the day goes on it's easier for me to open the binding. I am terrified of the idea of one of the bindings popping off during a spill. Although I have been out 7 times this year, I have only had moderate falls. What do you guys think?

Thanks,

Ethan

[Jack Michaud]

some boots actually change size slightly with temperature. if it's a problem, adjust your bindings outdoors after you've been riding for a few hours. imo, the bindings should be tight enough so that they are just barely easy enough to open with one hand. if that still doesn't cut it for you, you may go a little tighter, but you really don't want the binding to be warping the boot, or so tight that it is a strong effort with two hands.

[ethanpt]

have you ever heard of them popping open?

[Steve Dold]

I saw one pop open once, because the lever wasn't adjusted to be over-center enough. The rider wasn't hurt too bad luckily.

[bookworm]

I've had one of my TD1s open. On a very cold day. I noticed the binding was getting loose. My Raichle's shrink when they get cold. I thought they were alright, and ended up eating it. Not a huge crash or anything, but it taught me a lesson. Now, if the binders are loosening, I stop and make the adjustment.:)

[NateW]

I've had a few pop-open incidents with my TS1s, almost all of them were flat landings off big jumps - like coming up short on a tabletop, for example. Landing HARD must be deforming the boot or something, I dunno. Anyhow, I tried a bunch of different tension levels, couldn't get the problem to go away, then gave up and went to step-ins.

Since switching I even busted a pin off one of my Intec heels. I think I'm unusually hard on my equipment, but yes it can happen.

I'm reluctant to give any tension advice, as I obviously couldn't do it right. :)

[ethanpt]

well, I guess I will have them tighter, rather than looser- I think i would rather warp the boots than tear ligaments?

[Tim W]

Ethan,

You do not want the binding to cause the boot to warp. This creates a situation where the binding is loaded becuase the boot is deformed. When the binding is loaded it acts like a spring under tension and can pop open (especially easy if you lift up the front of your foot). I have popped out many times due to having my bindings too tight (I also did not have the toe bail far enough back). You want the binding as described by Jack.

Let me know if you have other questions,
Tim

[ethanpt]

Hmm- would converting them to step ins correct the problem? should i consider another binding? Do the TD 2s allow for more adjustability in terms of sizing?

[NateW]

Step-ins are a lot more forgiving, fit-wise. The mechanism that lets you out of the binding is orthogonal to the mechanism that holds you into the binding, so you have to really screw it up to make it prone to failure.

And even when I did bust an intec heel pin, the remaining pin held the boot in. I didn't actually notice until some time later.

I've heard of intec cable failures, but at least they fail closed, so you're stuck to the board... that's inconvenient, but not dangerous. I keep a spare pair of heels in my car, haven't needed them so far (only about 45 days tho).

[Mark Jeangerard]

The guys who wear Raichles around here get a piece of heavy boot lace and loop it through the 'eye' on the toeclip. A knot is then tied just the right distance so it can be slipped under the closest buckle on the boot. After closing the binding, then open the buckle on the boot, slip the knot through and close the buckle. Voila, a toeclip lock.

[ethanpt]

that sounds like a good idea.

Question to the couple of guys who popped out- when you popped out, were the bindings tight or loose?

Thanks
Ethan

[NateW]

Ethan: yes, both.

Mark: While I don't see any drawback to the toe-lever strap idea, I also don't think it will help much. I think the binding releases at the rear, not the front. The toe lever fits the toe of the boot very accurately - much more so than the heel bail fits the heel of the boot. Also, and perhaps most important, the heel of the boot is under much more lateral force than the toe. The lower half of the shell can twist to absorb those forces. I think it's the lateral force (lateral relative to the boot (regardless of stance angle)) that cause release.

I wasn't exactly watching my heels very closely when the bindings popped open, so some of the above is speculation, but that's my theory... if you set the bindings loose enough, you can pop the heel out by bearing down sideways. I think that's the same "failure mode" I experienced, just with tighter bindings and more force.

[ethanpt]

Nate-

what would you suggest I do? I think they are out of 3 hole trench digger 2s. I also think they are out of the retro kits for trench digger 1s.

Maybe I should get new boots? This is a very expensive proposition.

[bookworm]

I posted earlier on this thread that I have come out of my TD1's, but don't get me wrong. I did not take the few minutes needed to adjust them properly. I love my TD1's - have three pair. The shrinkage deal on my Raichle's in not a big deal. I just check the weather before I head out the door and check my bindings as I'm buckling in at the base of the mountain. I almost never have to make any adjustments, just on really cold mornings, no big deal.

I find the TD1's to be super relialble and beefy. My wife and I have broken many Burton Race Plate bales. I have sworn them off. The bales on my TD1's are much more stout than the bales on the Burtons I used to ride. The entire interface is so different. I didn't realize how forgiving my Burtons were. They flex a ton. When I went to the TD1's it was different. No sloppiness and a lot less flex. You are really locked in to the board. It took some getting used to. With the TD1's, every subtle movement of the foot/boot is transmitted to the board. It feels like going from steering an old beater car to driving a sports car. Very responsive.

My wife has tried the TD1's, but did not like the change - she likes the forgiveness of the Burtons. We just know that we have to throw her bindings away after a couple of seasons of riding (she gets a ton of days in). That's not so bad, as we can find new ones on eBay for $100 to $125. I don't know how long we will be able to continue to find them, but she will probably stick with them for as long as they are available cheap. Unless I can get her to give Bombers another try someday; she has progressed a ton since she last gave them a whirl. :cool:

[ethanpt]

Is the only adjustment lengthwise on the front and back where the 2 bolts are? is there another way to make a snaller adjustment...it just seems like they are either kinda snug (then loose in the cold) or wicked tight

[Mark Jeangerard]

Originally posted by NateW
Mark: While I don't see any drawback to the toe-lever strap idea, I also don't think it will help much...

Now that you mention it, I've only had preejectulation on two occasions, but in both cases I think I remember the heel coming up first.

[pnut]

ethanpt asked:

Is the only adjustment lengthwise on the front and back where the 2 bolts are? is there another way to make a snaller adjustment...it just seems like they are either kinda snug (then loose in the cold) or wicked tight

You can micro adjust at the toe and heel bails, remove the allen screws on the bails and you can turn the shaft on the bail hook. Look here http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/setup.cfm

[alakata]

Found this in search: basically answers question to my other thread, im having the same problem with my td1's, its gets easier and easier to open them, I had 2 releases today off of some air :eek: , kinda scary,

my combo is td1s and raichles